Stepladder 215

Materials

Yellow Pine (Chap. III., Par. 48) or any-soft wood.

2 pcs. 7/8"x45/8"x5' 2" S 2 S Sides.

4 pcs. 7/8"x5 1/2"xl6 1/2" S 2 S Steps.

1 pc. 7/8"x7"xl7" S 2 S Top.

2 pcs. 7/8"xl3/4"x5' S 2 S Legs.

1 pc. 7/8"x2 1/4"xl5" S 2 S Top strips.

2 pcs. 3/8"xl 1/2"x3' 4" S 2 S Leg brace.

2 pes. 3/8"xl 1/2"xl5" S 2 S Leg brace. 1 pair l 1/4"x3" hinges with screws.

4 dozen 6d finishing nails.

3 dozen 1 1/4" brads. l-1/2" screw eye.

Introductory Statement

One of the handiest articles about the home, particularly in housecleaning and fruit season, is the stepladder.

This stepladder is so designed as to present the greatest possible strength and the most serviceable features. While it is not unduly heavy, yet it is sufficiently strong to stand many years of hard use. The top step is made wide enough to provide a satisfactory place to set a basin of water or a paint bucket.

The method of attaching the legs with hinges affords strength which can hardly be provided by any other means. In the suggestions you will see some other ideas for ladder construction, but they are not so substantial as those given in the working drawing.

References:

Seven Hundred Things for Boys to Do. Popular Mechanics Co., Chicago. Modern Carpentry and Joinery, Hodgson. The Handy Man's Book, Hasluck. Book Supply Co., Chicago.

Step Ladder

Step Ladder

Suggestions For Original Design

Introductory Statement 217

Mithod of Fastening Legs and. Steps

Introductory Statement 218

Folding Step Ladder Stool

Stepladder Specifications

The Sides

Square the stock for the side pieces (Chapter II., Paragraphs 2, 3 and 4); lay out and cut them the dimensions shown in the drawing. Make sure that the two side pieces are exactly the same size. (The opening cut in each side piece makes the stepladder somewhat lighter without making it any weaker; it also improves the appearance of the ladder). Lay out the spaces for the gains. Notice that the steps are to stand level when the ladder is open. It will be well to set the T-bevel to this angle and use it in laying out these gains. Be sure not to lay out the gains any wider than the thickness of the step material or the joints will not fit snugly. Lay out and cut these gains (Chapter V., Paragraph 61).

The Steps

Plane the edges of the steps to the angle shown in the drawing. You should use the T-bevel again as you did in making the gains. Cut the top step the correct size; cut the bottom step the correct length. You will notice that the stepladder is a little narrower at the top than at the bottom. For this reason the steps are not all the same length, and in order to get the length of each, you should assemble the work as follows: Nail the top and the bottom steps in their respective positions. Make sure that the sides are perfectly straight and measure the length of each of the other steps separately. The steps are to be fastened in position by nailing through the side pieces. Use finishing nails and set them slightly below the surface.

The Legs

Square the stock (Chapter II., Paragraphs 2, 3 and 4). Make the legs the dimensions shown in the drawing. Notice that the legs are attached to the stepladder with two hinges, and that the hinges are planted on a cross rail which is nailed to the side pieces, and also down through the top. This makes a very strong piece of construction. Prepare this piece and nail it firmly in position. Hinge the legs in position with screws, making them exactly even with the outside of the side pieces.

With the ladder in a closed position, and the legs exactly even with the side pieces their full length, you can nail the cross braces on to the legs. Be sure that the cross braces are straight; fit all the joints accurately. This will not only add to the appearance, but to the strength of your ladder. The ladder is to be kept from spreading when in use by a small rope fastened to a screw eye, as indicated in the drawing.

Finishing

With a sharp plane set to take a very thin shaving, go over the edges of the steps, if necessary, and plane them down to the exact width of the side pieces. Plane any other joints which may not be absolutely even. Smooth with sandpaper, putty the nail holes; stain it the desired color (Chapter IV., Paragraph 54); add a coat or two of shellac (Chapter IV., Paragraph 57). If the stepladder is to be used mostly out of doors, it would be well to give it a coat of paint (Chapter IV., Paragraph 52).

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Stepladder With Bolted Legs

1. A stepladder may have the legs attached with two small bolts, as shown in the suggestions. This is an easy method of construction, but not so substantial as the method presented in the lesson.

Stepladder Stool

2. A handy folding stool, which will also serve the purpose of a short stepladder, can be easily made in accordance with the idea presented in the suggestions.