Material. - A block of dressed pine, 2" wide, 1 1/2 thick, and about 6" long. Work. - To shape a molding with gouge and chisel.
Lay out the block as shown in Fig. 1, using the measures as given in Fig. 2. The form of the molding, an ogee, as seen on the end of the block, a, Fig. 1, is sketched on the wood, or, as is the practice in shops, is marked on the end from a thin pattern, Fig. 2. The lines b, b, Fig. 1, are drawn by the rule and pencil.
In cutting with the gouge, apply the same directions given for the use of the chisel. Cut small shavings, hold the gouge obliquely, as shown in Fig. 3, test frequently with the try-square, and avoid cutting beyond the marks. The hollow portion should be cut first with the gouge, then the small rectangular piece in the upper part of the molding cut out with the chisel, leaving what is called a quirk, and lastly the top rounded by the chisel. In cutting the quirk, the chisel is held by the blade and drawn along the pencil mark on the top of the block, cutting like a knife-edge, and the wood pared down to the bottom of the cut; the chisel is then again used like a knife, and more pared off, this process being repeated until the entire quirk is cut.
To return the molding, the end is given the same form as the face, a, Fig. 4. This form may be marked on the end, from a piece of molding held against it, by the marking-point of the bench-knife, or by measuring points along the curve with the rule, and marking through them with the pencil. The return is cut down upon a waste board with the gouge and chisel. In cutting across the grain with the gouge, it must have a circular motion, which is the same in effect as the oblique cut of the chisel.
In drawings, the form of a molding is always indicated by a section of it, as shown at c, Fig. 4.
In Fig. 5 is represented a core-box, made by pattern-makers. It is an example of gouge work.
Fig. 6 shows a molding coped, or fitted to another. The shape of the end of a molding for coping may be obtained by sawing the end in a miter-box.