This section is from the "A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods" book, by George S. Cole. Also available from Amazon: A complete dictionary of dry goods and history of silk, cotton, linen, wool and other fibrous substances,: Including a full explanation of the modern processes ... together with various useful tables.
Matelasse (Mat-Las-A'). A term applied to silk or woolen cloth to denote the particular style of its weaving. Such fabrics have a raised pattern on their surface which look as if they had been quilted or wadded. The French word matelasser means to quilt, or to wad. Matelassa silks have usually a rich flowered pattern, and are of one color, the pattern showing only by its slight relief or embossed appearance. The term has also been given to a heavy cloaking fabric, composed of cotton and wool, or silk, cotton and wool mixed; the design being large flower patterns, or brocades of an overshot or embossed appearance.