This section is from the "Encyclopedia Of Practical Receipts And Processes" book, by William B. Dick. Also available from Amazon: Dick's encyclopedia of practical receipts and processes.
2761. To Mix Oil Colors. In mixing different colored paints to produce any desired tint, it is best to have the principal ingredient thick, and add to it the other paints thinner. In the following table of the combinations of colors required to produce a required tint, the first named color is the principal ingredient, and the others follow in the order of their importance. Thus, in mixing a limestone tint, white is the principal ingredient, and red the color of which least is needed, etc.. The exact proportions of each depending on the shade of color required.
2762. Table of Compound Colors, Showing the Simple Colors which Produce them.
Buff..............White, Yellow Ochre, Bed
Chestnut................Bed, Black, Yellow
Chocolate..........Baw Umber, Bed, Black
Claret...................Bed, Umber, Black
Copper..................Bed, Yellow, Black
Dove........White, Vermilion, Blue, Yellow
Drab.......White, Yellow Ochre, Bed, Black
Fawn...................White, Yellow, Bed
Flesh........White, Yellow Ochre, Vermilion
Freestone..Red, Black, Yellow Ochre, White French Gray.. ..White, Prussian Blue, Lake
Gray.....................White Lead, Black
Gold...............White, Stone Ochre, Bed
Green Bronze..Chrome Green, Black, Yellow
Do Pea.............White, Chrome Green
Lemon..............White, Chrome Yellow
Limestone.-White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Bed
Olive............Yellow, Blue, Black, White
Orange........................Yellow, Bed
Peach.....................White, Vermilion
Pearl....................White, Black, Blue
Pink................White, Vermilion, Lake
Purple.....Violet, with more Bed and White
Rose...................White, Madder Lake
Sandstone ..White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Bed
Snuff..............Yellow, Vandyke Brown
Violet... .Bed, Blue, White. (See No. 2761 (To Mix Oil Colors).)
2763. To Prepare Whitewashed Walls for Painting. If" there should be any cracks in the plastering, and the wash be sound around the cracks, plaster of Paris is the best thing to fill them with, as it hardens quickly, does not shrink, and leaves the sur-face level with the wall. If the plaster of Paris sets before it can be worked, wet it with vinegar. The stronger the acid, the slower it will set. If cracks be filled with putty, and the wall be painted in gloss color, the streaks of putty are very apt to be flat (no gloss), and if painted in flat color, the streaks are quite sure to have a gloss. These streaks, of course, will spoil the beauty of the work, but do not affect its durability. When filled with plaster of Paris the reversion of gloss never appears, if done as directed below. If the cracks be only in the wash, the latter is loosening from the wall; and if it has not begun to scale, it soon will, and all attempts to fasten it on and paint it will be total loss. If it be loose enough to scrape off, scrape the wall, taking care not to gouge into the original wall. If not loose enough, let it alone until it is. If the wash be thin, solid, and even, it can be painted to look and wear well. When the surface is lumpy, rub the lumps off with a sandstone, or a brick. After a wall has been prepared, as in either of above cases, or if a wall that has never been washed is to be painted, size it with 2 coats of glue size (3 ounces glue to 1 gallon water). (See No. 2815 (To Make Glue Sizing).) Be sure the glue is all dissolved before using any of it. Let the first coat dry before the second coat is put on.
 
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