This section is from the "Encyclopedia Of Practical Receipts And Processes" book, by William B. Dick. Also available from Amazon: Dick's encyclopedia of practical receipts and processes.
1874. To Prevent the Bottoms of Plant Sticks Rotting. Dip the bottoms of the plant sticks (as far as they are inserted into the ground) into hot asphalt three or four times, until the asphalt is the 1/16 of an inch thickness on them; this will preserve them a long time. Those that have not the convenience of dipping them in asphalt, may substitute tar, and they will endure nearly as long as those that have been asphalted.
1875. To Destroy Weeds and Worms in Gravel Walks. Lay a coat of salt all over the walk, and then water it, using a rose water-pot; but this should not be done where there is a box edging, or it will kill that likewise. Where the edging is turf, slate, or tiles, there is nothing to fear.
1876. To Destroy Worms in Lawns, Grass Plots, etc. Mix at the rate of 10 pounds slacked lime to 30 gallons water; stir it up well together, and then let it stand for 2 or 3 days, in which time pour it off' the sediment, and water the lawn with it by means of a rose water-pot; this will fetch the worms out on the top of the ground, and they will require to be swept up with a broom and carried away. The best time to do this is in damp weather, as the worms are then nearer the surface; and the lawn should be rolled the evening previous, which will not only assist in bringing the worms nearer the surface, but will fill up all the holes they have forsaken. The following night they will again open the holes in which they lie, and thereby afford the water greater facility to reach them the next day without wasting much by its soaking into forsaken holes. Diluted ammoniacal liquor will answer the same purpose, but it will make the grass look brown for some time afterwards. (See No. 1865 (To Kill Moss on Lawns).)
1877. Composition for Wounds on Rose-Bushes. Take 5 parts black pitch, 1 part each resin, tallow, and bees' wax; these should be mixed in a small pipkin, and dissolved over a slow fire. Apply it to the wounds with a brush, and it will heal them, as well as prevent their dying back.
1878. Bleeding in Vines. Work together 1 part calcined oyster-shells beaten to fine powder in a mortar, and 3 parts cheese, until they form a sort of paste. This mixture is to be forced into the pores of the wood where bleeding takes place, by means of the thumb and finger. A second application is sometimes necessary. (See Nos. 1880 (New Grafting Wax) and 1881.)
1879. Composition for Healing Wounds in Trees. Take 3 parts pounded chalk and 1 part common vegetable tar; mix thoroughly, and boil them with a low heat tillthe composition becomes of the consistency of bees' wax; it may be preserved for use in this state for any length of time. If chalk cannot conveniently be got, dry brick-dust may be substituted. . After the broken or decayed limb has been sawed off, the whole of the saw-cut must bo very carefully pared away, and the rough edges of the bark, in particular, must be made quite smooth; the doing of this properly is of great consequence; then lay on the above composition hot, about the thickness of half a dollar, over the wounded place, and over the edges of the surrounding bark; it should be spread with a hot trowel.
 
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