Wm. M. Francis.

When I was a boy I made several small boats which were propelled by steam or clockworks, some using paddle wheels and others were propellers (screw). I have recently made one for my own boy and think it may interest some of the readers of this magazine to know how it was built. The first thing to obtain is a set of works from an old alarm clock. A cheap one of the kind sold in most every jewelry store will do. An old one can often be obtained of a jeweler who will give it away to get rid of it. Of course it must be in good enough order to run when wound, after removing the escapement. Other works would perhaps do, but would probably require a larger boat. The size of the works governs the construction to quite a degree. To prepare the works, remove all spindles and gears except the large one carrying the mainspring and two or three spin-dles which run in train with it. By referring to Fig. 4 it will be seen what is meant, and if the gear in the works does not come so that it will drive the propeller gear at the top, as shown, it may be driven from the underside.

Fig. 1.

For the hull obtain a clear straight-grained piece of white pine 3"x33/4"x 1 3" long. Lay out the curve for the lines or shear of the deck by driving in a brad at the edge of the top side at about the position of the center section in Fig. 1. Bend a thin piece of wood, taking it by both ends and bending it against the brad, while some one marks the curve on the block to be sawed.

Also mark the piece to be sawed out on the under part of the stern. Any one who has a bandsaw will saw these out in a few minutes. Otherwise, cut away with a saw and chisel or draw-knife. Or a templet can be made of thin wood, and one side of the boat marked out. Then turn the templet over and mark the other side, as shown in plan, Fig. 2. If a center line has been drawn from end to end of the boat, and the templet applied to it, both sides of the boat will be of the same curve, which may now be sawed out on this curve. Next make templets for the different sections of the boat as shown in Fig. 3. These can be drawn on thick cardboard or thin wood and cut out with a knife. By applying the templets to each side as the work progresses they may be exactly alike, though much of the boat will have to be judged with the eye. With these templets for guides, cut out the lines of the boat with a chisel or gouge. During this work the block should be clamped to the bench, using thin pieces of wood to prevent the clamp from jamming the block. A set of carving tools will be very useful for this work.

After finishing one side, additional templets can be made of curves at different points in the length of the hull and the other side finished to these templets. One who has a good eye can dispense with the templets and, in the absence of other tools, fashion the whole hull with nothing but a jackknife. All the curves of course gradually merge into one another so that the eye can scarcely perceive the change. The lines of a large boat or ship are laid out in exactly the same way, but there is a templet for every rib. If the person has never made a boat before, he had better examine some boat that is drawn out of water or one that is being built.

The next step is to hollow the boat. .Take a pencil and draw a line around the deck about §" from the edge, following the outline of the hull. The line is shown in plan, Fig. 2. Take two pieces of board and cut them out like Fig. 6 to fit the bottom of the boat at points near the ends and nail them to the bench as shown. The boat may now be placed in them, right side up, and clamped, again using a piece of wood to keep from bruising the wood. Go around this line with a sharp knife or carver's V tool, taking care not to split the side anywhere. Remove what wood can safely be done with a bit, and then take a gouge or narrow chisel and hollow out the boat about to dotted lines shown in elevation, Fig. 2. Great care must now be used that a hole is not cut through the side, and the work must be carefully gauged to have about an equal thickness at all similar points of the sides. The clockworks must be fitted at a point about midships, and more wood may have to be taken out in places to accommodate them. After the inside of the hull is done, a ledge must be cut, on which to lay the deck. This should be about 3/16 wide at the sides of the boat, but may be more toward the bow and stern. The depth should be about 1/8", or sufficient to receive the piece of thin board of which you make the deck. A piece of a long cigar box will answer nicely and makes a nice appearance when finished.

Fig. 2.

A piece of pine about 1/2" square section is now to be inserted across the hull to carry the end of the propeller shaft. This piece has to be let down flush with the top of the ledge so that the deck will lay down on it. Also insert another piece a little forward of the works to help hold up the forward part of the deck. These pieces should be fastened by small nails or screws, as shown in Fig. 2. The deck may now be fitted, using care in springing it down when trying it. It is to be fastened with small, countersunk screws to the ledge and the pieces across the hull, taking care to put no screws where the propeller shaft is to be. We now want a piece of brass 1/16" x 1/16^" x 3" long for stern shoe, another piece 1/23" x 3/8" x 2" long for blades of the propeller, and a piece about 1/32" x 1" x 1" long to go on the crosspiece for propeller gear to run against. These may be cut from the metal case of the clock if not otherwise obtainable. Also a piece of straight steel wire about fa" in diameter, 8" or 9" long, for shaft. Also a piece of brass tube about the same length, in which the wire shaft will fit quite loosely. These articles may all be obtained at any large hardware store and would probably not cost over 15 cents. Also get a piece of lead 1/16" x 1" x 15" for a lead keel, which is doubled in the middle lengthwise and hammered together on a smooth piece of iron or an anvil so as to make a keel 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick.