Many amateur printers find the cost of a press large enough to print a small newspaper, much too great to permit of their obtaining them, and so are obliged to do without the instructive pleasure and profit incident to amateur journalism. As the work of printing the paper is quite as enjoyable as that of editing it, the press here described will afford those of fair mechanical skill a way to have a press upon which good work may be done at fair speed. It is much like the old Adams hand press, many of which are still to be found in small towns where a small weekly paper serves up the local news to a very limited number of subscribers. The size here described will print a form 14" x 20" or the size of two pages of this magazine. A very neat amateur paper of four pages could be printed by running two pages, and then turning and running the other two pages.

The frame is made of 2" x 3" spruce joist, which planed all over will measure 1 3-4" x 2 3-4". The four pieces A, are 61" long, mortises 7-8" wide, being cut 1" from each end for receiving the tenons on pieces B. All mortises and tenons should be very carefully cut on each end. In addition, cut mortises 1" wide, 5" and 18" from the lower ends for cross pieces C. Four pieces C are 16" long, tenons being cut on each end to fit mortises in B.

The four pieces D, are 47" long, and bolted 3 3-4" apart to the pieces A, after attaching the cross piece E, and fitting the pieces H, which are mortised, the lower edge being 25" from the floor. The two pieces It, are 10" long, with tenons on each end. The piece E, is 22" long, 3 3-4" wide, and 2 3-4" thick, and fastened to the top ends of D with 1-4" lag screws with washers under the heads. Bore holes for these screws hefore driving and place them so they will not interfere with the bolt M. The centre line between pieces D, is 25 1-2" from the left ends of the frame pieces A, as shown in the illustration.

The two pieces J, are 8" long, and fastened with 3-8" lag screws to the under side of the pieces A', the fit of the joint being square and close. A 1 1-4" hole is bored 31" from the left end, the centre of the hole being in the joint between the two pieces J and A, and the hole being bored exactly square and true. Pieces of brass tubing 2" long, 1" internal diameter and 1-8" thick are then fitted to these holes, forming a bearing for the shaft of the cylinder P. This cylinder is of wood 5" in diameter, and 8" long, and preferably should be glued up of four pieces and then turned down. The shaft for same is 1 1-4" square drawn steel, 22" long, turned down in a lathe to 1" for the bearings, the length turned on one end being 3" and one on the other 6". Or a solid cylinder of wood can be bored at each end with a 1" bit and pieces of 1" shafting fitted therein, but great care must be used to locate the holes exactly in the centre of the ends. The outer front end of the shaft is filed square to fit a handle; one used for grindstones will answer, and these may be purchased at most hardware stores.

The bed F is glued up from strips of selected maple, which has been well seasoned. The dimen-tions are 14" x 24" x 2 1-2". Unless the builder has suitable clamps this can best be gotten out at some wood-working shop, as it must be well done and the top absolutely level. "When complete a sheet of brass 1-8" thick, 24" long, and 14" wide is fastened with 1 1-2" brass screws to th's wooden support. Holes spaced 3" apart are drilled all around the edge and countersunk for the heads of the screws. The top surface of the brass plate should be absolutely level, smooth, and firm, so that the type form will be evenly and firmly supported. Along each side are screwed maple strips F', 24" x 5 1-2" x 1 1-2", the lower edges being dropped 1 1-2" below the under side of F, and about 1 1-16" above the top of F, forming bearers for the ends of the cylinder O to rest upon. The upper edge should be absolutely even and exactly the same height at all points. The ends are slightly beveled, so the cylinder will be taken up easily. These pieces form the runners for carrying the bed F to and fro. Before finally fastening in position, carefully measure the distance between the inner edges of the upper pieces A, and space the pieces F' a trifle further apart so they will not bind on the guides G. The lower inside edges of F' may be planed with a rabbet plane to secure the proper fit. On each corner of the bed F, are attached corner pieces made of brass bent to an angle and well fitted, and securely attached with several screws. These keep the chase in position when doing work. They project above the top of the bed a trifle less than the thickness of the chase and should not be fitted until the chase is secured so that the latter may be used in making the fit.

The movement of the bed is secured by means of belts fastened at one end of the cylinder P, and at the other ends to the frames B, fastened to the under sides of the ends of the bed. Three pieces 8" long and 1 1-2" square are needed for each frame; two projecting pieces and a cross piece. The joints are halved and firmly fastened with screws and the inner ends screwed to the under side of the bed. Three pieces of 1 1-2" belting 38" long, are required; the centre one being fastened to the frame at right or outer end of the bed, and the two outer strips to the frame as the left or inner end of bed. The ends of the belting on the clyinder are fastened first, the bed moved the full distance to one end and the outer end of belt on that end fastened; then moved to the outer end and the end of the other belts fastened. By turning the handle to cylinder P, the bed can be moved as desired. The guides G, are 61" long, 1" thick, and 2" high, and are firmly attached to the inner edges of the pieces A' so that they are 1-2" higher than A'. Graphite or axle greese is used to lubricate the ways. To the outer end of the bed two blocks S, 4" x3" x 2" are attached, one on either side, to which are attached pieces S' 7" x 2" x 1", the upper ends being beveled. The tympan T rests upon these pieces when laid back for the insertion or removal of the paper.

The tympan is a double frame made of oak strips 3-4" x 1-2"- These frames are made exactly alike, one fitting inside the other with about 1-16" space between. The end at t, is not made of wood, but of a strip of steel, 14" long, 1-2" wide and 1-8" thick. The outer frame is 25" long; and 15" wide, the inner one 23 3-4" long, and 13 3-4" wide.

The impression cylinder O is 8" diameter and 12" long. It should be built up from four pieces of clear grained, well seasoned maple, and mounted on a shaft made of 1 1-2" square steel. In addition to gluing, it is advisable to bore holes at each end through each two adjoining pieces and put through dowels which should also be weli glued. When the glue is thoroughly dry, mount in a lathe and turn off the shaft for bearings to 1 1-4" diameter, and then turn down the cylinder, using care to have it of uniform d'ameter. As this part of the press may be beyond the capacity of some readers, it can be ordered at some pattern makers or wood working shop.

Another way to make it, and also the cylinder P, is to buy steel or brass tubing, close up the ends with wood or brass plate, carefully locate the centres and drill holes for a piece of 1 1-4" round shafting. It can then be mounted in a lathe and a light truing cut taken off, and then polished. If tubing is easily obtainable, this will cost less, and also be easier than to use wood. The shaft is 21 1-2" long, and 1 1-4" diameter. The journals K, are each made of two pieces of maple 3 1-2" x 2" x 2". The two pieces are put together in a vise and a 1-2" hole bored for the shaft, the centre being on the joint. Pieces of brass tubing are used for bushing, to prevent the shaft from wearing down the wood. Slots 1-2" wide and deep are cut on the ends vertically fitting the ways L made of 1-2" square maple strips 14" long. The bolt M and eye-bolt N are each 8" long, and 3-4" or 7-8" diameter. These may have to be made up to order by a blacksmith, in which case use steel shaftiug; so as to secure a smooth finished surface. The ends are threaded to fit plates screwed to the journals K. The hole in the piece E for the bolt M should be an easy fit, but not loose, as should also be the hole in the piece H for the eye-bolt N. By turning the bolts M the impression of the cylinder is regulated. The plates at the top and bottom of the journal have projecting lugs, two inside and one outside, to receive the ends or 3-8" bolts 5" long, which hold the journal together but are not shown in the illustration.

Steel expansion springs 5" long, and strong enough to hold the cylinder up, are put between the journal and the piece H. Pieces of strong rope or twisted iron close-line, are attached to the eyes in the bolts N and to the ends of a piece of oak W, 21" long, 2" wide and 1" thick which is about 16" from the floor. From the centre of W, drop another piece of rope or wire to the treadle W which is 22" long, 3 1-4" wide and 7-8" thick. The inner end of the treadle is hinged, with a strong T hinge to the piece A. The travel of the onter end need not be over 3". If the weight is too great for the springs under the journals K, a spring may be attached to the front end of W. By pressing with the foot upon the end of W the cylinder O is brought down on to the bed T, the latter then laying upon type with the paper between.

To prepare the press for work, the two frames of the tympan are each covered with a smooth covering of muslin or sheeting, the form placed upon the press, guage pins located, and an impression taken on a sheet of the paper to be used for the run. If this press proof be examined, the impression may not be found uniform, in which case adjust the bolts M, and then correct local heavy or light places by pasting up aud cutting out layers of paper which place between the cloth covering the two frames of the tympan. This is called the " make ready." A long two-handled ink roller and a piece of thick glass or marble are needed for inking, and a table for the blank and printed sheets. To take an impression lay a blank sheet upon the tympany ink the type, bring down the flies V, place the tympan upon the type, turn the crank carrying the bed under the cylinder, press the lever firmly but not too hard with the foot, turn the crank in the reverse direction bringing out the bed under pressure from the cylinder, lift the tympan, throw up the fly and remove the printed sheet. After a little practice, excellent work can be done on a press such as is here described. Any points not clearly understood by readers will be further explained in the correspondence column.

Hardness in lead pencils is obtained by compressing the graphite mixture into the form ready to be glued into the wood casings. A highly compressed mixture produces a pencil of greater wearing qualities, an important feature in a high grade pencil. Hydraulic presses are used for the purpose, and the mixture of clay and graphite, which is still in a plastic condition and has been formed into loaves, is placed into these presses, which are provided with a die depending on the sectional area of the lead desired; through this die the material is forced.