How many home workers have wished to make a banjo clock case but hesitated because of the difficulty in obtaining suitable movements and ornamental brass work! That is no longer an obstacle, for the clock illustrated in Figs. 21 and 22 will fit one of the standard sets of brasses sold for use by craftsmen.

Such a kit usually includes an eight-day movement, a silvered dial, a bronze-plated sash, a pair of pierced hands, two side brass scrolls, an eagle finial, and two decorative glass panels. The cost is in the neighborhood of seven dollars. To this, of course, must be added the cost of the wood, which is trifling, and finishing materials - not more than ten dollars altogether. Whitewood, birch, gum, or any wood which will take mahogany stain can be used, if genuine mahogany cannot be obtained.

Make the top drum in segments as indicated by lines 1-2 at B, Fig. 22. Twelve segments ¾ in. thick will be needed, or 18 pieces ½ in. thick, each with the grain running lengthwise. Make a pasteboard pattern and cut the inside curve of each segment accurately, but leave the outside curve with sufficient allowance for working it down to size after the drum has been glued. Lay each segment so the inside coincides with a 4 ½ in. circle drawn upon a piece of pasteboard. Build up the drum and glue and fasten the segments with brads. Break the joints about as indicated by lines 1-2, whether the segments are in two or three layers. Be sure the inside is just 4½ in. in diameter and 1½ in. deep.

Fasten on the ¼-in. back with glue and brads, and make the outside of the drum 5¾ in. in diameter and as smooth as possible. Get out the shaft block, 1 ½ by 3½ by 8% in., tapering to 2 in. wide at the top. Prepare the base block, 1¾ by 4 1/8 by 7 1/8 in., with two pieces % by 1% by 4 1/8 in. glued and bradded on the ends as at C to cover the end wood.

Fig. 21. - A banjo clock is one of the easiest of timepieces to construct.

Plane a flat place at D on the drum to rest upon the top of the shaft block. Glue and fasten drum and shaft with 1 ½-in. No. 8 screws. Plane another flat place 1¾ in. wide on top of drum at E to receive the finial base.

Either dowel the base block and shaft together, or bore holes F and F1 through the base block and fasten the shaft with glue and screws.

The molding for the glass panel frames must be rabbeted, but the face may be either flat or round as at A; the latter is preferable, but it is more work.

Another choice exists in making the corners of the frames: they must be mitered, glued, and bradded, but may be left plain or covered with a small piece of wood glued on as at G. If rounded molding has been used, however, the squares must be set in as at Gl. Do not fasten the panels to the blocks until after finishing the clock.

Make the finial base and the pendant with the grain running vertically in each.

Fig. 22. - Front and side views of a banjo clock case; construction of drum ; the shaft and base clocks; panels and moldings; base and pendant designs.

They may be band sawed if a very fine band saw is available. Note the simpler alternate designs. Be sure that the forms are true and the corners straight. Fasten them in place with glue and brads.

Make a piece 1/8 by ¼ by 3½ in. to fit under the shaft panel frame as indicated in the drawing at H, and glue in place.

Smooth and sandpaper all exposed surfaces carefully. Stain all pieces and apply three or four light coats of shellac. Rub each coat with No. 4/0 sandpaper. Finish the last coat with wax.

Fill the panel frames with the ready-made glass panels. If these are not used, plain glass may be cut to fit the rabbets of each frame and either left as it is or decorated by hand or by fitting a picture behind the glass.

Fasten the frames to the base and shaft with a few ¾-in. No. 19 brads. Set the brads, fill the holes with colored putty, and touch with wax. Put the brasses in place and install the movement, dial, and sash.