Several designs for piano benches are suggested in Figs. 13 and 14. The main difference in the various types lies in the shape of the legs. Use the design which will harmonize best with your piano; although, of course, a bench with plain legs (Fig. 13) will be in good taste for use with practically any instrument.

Fig. 13. - A neat, strong, easily made piano bench with storage space underneath the seat.

To make the simplest of the benches illustrated - that for which complete Bide and end views are given - prepare four legs 1¾ by 1¾ by 18 5/8 in. and taper them as shown on the inside faces from a point 4½ in. from the to]) to the bottom, where they are 1 in. square.

Make two side rails 7/8 by 3 ¾ by 36 ½. in., and two end rails 7/8 by 3¾ by 10 ½ in. Rabbet the rails to receive the ½ in. thick bottom and bore for dowel joints. Smooth, sandpaper, and assemble legs and rails. Fit the bottom and fasten it securely in place with 1¼-in. No. 16 brads.

Fig. 14. - Completely dimensioned working drawings for a bench with plain, tapered legs and an alternate design with gracefully shaped rails and feet are shown below.

At the left are illustrated an Empire style bench, a graceful cabriole leg. and a simpler leg with a spade foot.

Glue up a well-selected piece for the seat 7/8 by 16 by 42 in.; or if you prefer you may use plywood, provided you can obtain it as thick as ¾ in. In using glued-up stock, plane and sandpaper the underside and fit two cleats 3/8 by 2½ by 11 in. as at C and fasten them with 1-in. No. 8 screws.

Plane the tops of rails and legs to fit the seat and hang it with 3 in. wide brass butt hinges as at B. The hinge must project back far enough to allow the top to be opened fully without binding on the legs, and you may therefore fit a piece ¼ by 1 by 36½ in. as at D, if you wish, to bring the top of the hinge rail flush with the outside of the back legs.

Smooth and sandpaper the seat, and the bench will be ready for finishing.

If music is not to be kept in the top, the top rails may be made narrower and the bottom omitted. Bottom rails and a stretcher may be fitted as shown at E, if desired.

The bench may be elaborated by making the top rails 6 in. wide and sawing a design upon the bottom of each. The bottom may be fitted into a groove, or fitted square after the legs are assembled as at F, Fig. 14. Feet may be suggested as at G by gluing on pieces of ½-in. wood and working them to a pleasing shape. The spade foot leg (Fig. 13) may be used as an alternate design. The Empire bench and the bench with cabriole legs (Fig. 13) are made with mitered rails, fitted and glued together as at H and strengthened with screws. The Empire legs may be made from 2¼ in. square wood and the semicircular holes J bored with sharp, clean cutting auger bits; each hole should be square and parallel with its related surfaces.

Pieces K, held in place with hand screws, will help in boring these holes.

The cabriole legs may be cut from 5 in. square stock. Make a pasteboard pattern, mark each of the squares on adjacent sides, and take the wood to a mill to be band sawed. Smooth with spoke-shave, file, and sandpaper.

The bench may be stained to match the piano and finished with shellac or a hard varnish. Rub all undercoats with No. 4/0 or 6/0 sandpaper and the last coat with FF powdered pumice stone and oil, finishing with wax if desired.

Benches may be made shorter than 42 in., but not for duet playing.