Correcting the Length of the Skirt - Finishing the Edge put the skirt on the person for whom it is being made, and see that it is even, and the same distance from the floor all round, correcting it if necessary. Remove it from the figure and turn it inside out. With the square, measure the depth for the hem and turning (4 1/2 inches) all round, and mark it with chalk at intervals. Cut off the superfluous material, turn in the raw edge, and tack it down smoothly and evenly

(making a little pleat where necessary to make it fit the skirt), as near to the edge as possible. This tacking should be done with white cotton, or cotton of a contrasting colour, and the stitches must be short on the wrong side and long on the right.

The line of tacking on the right side of the skirt is a guide for the machine stitching, which must be done just below, and close to, the tacking. Place a second row of machine stitching below the first - the space between these two rows must be the same width as the "lapped" seam.

Damp and press the hem well all round, on the wrong side. If a braid is to be put on, fold it double, and either hem it, or run it neatly on, with an occasional backstitch - the latter is the stronger method. "Ease" the braid well in putting it on, or the skirt will be puckered round the bottom. The edge of the braid should be put on level with the edge of the skirt, or, after it has been pressed, it will show too much below the edge. Damp the braid and press it well on the wrong side on the bare board.

Resting on the floor. Mark the required length

Fig. 1. Place the square with the short arm of skirt at intervals all round

Cut a piece of Prussian binding four or five inches long, place it across the front of the skirt at the bottom of the band, turn it in and stitch it on firmly at each end. Sew a loop of binding about four inches long at the bottom of the band at each side of the back, an inch or two from the end.

The piece across the centre of the band prevents a crease forming down the centre of the front of the skirt. If the length from the waist - over the hips to the floor - is not the same on both sides of the figure (this is frequently the case), a better method of measuring and turning up the skirt at the bottom is to put it on the person for whom it is being made, and measure it, from the floor upwards, with a tailor's square, as illustrated in the sketch. The square is placed with the short arm resting on the floor, and the long arm upwards against the skirt. Take a piece of tailor's chalk and mark on the skirt, by the square, the distance that it is to be from the floor, and either move the square and mark the skirt at short intervals all round, and then turn up the hem by the marks and pin it at intervals, or make two or three marks and then turn up a part of the bottom of the skirt, and so on alternately, as shown in the sketch.

When the skirt has been accurately turned up and pinned all round, finish making it according to the instructions already given.