Trim your cutlets neatly, remove superfluous fat, and make them dainty in shape. Dip each cutlet in melted butter, and then roll it in bread-crumbs and very finely grated Parmesan cheese, the crumbs and the cheese being in equal parts. Cook over a clear fire, and see that the cutlets do not get burned or blackened.

"The gourmet is not a voracious eater; he chews his food more than another because this function is a true pleasure to him, and because a long stay of the aliments in the palate is the first principle of happiness."-Grimod de la Reyniere.

The real gourmet eats by candle-light because, as Roqueplan said, "nothing is more ugly than a sauce seen in sunlight." For this and other reasons the true gourmet avoids breakfast-parties, lunches, high-teas, pic-nics, and analogous solecisms.

In these days of progress, science, gas-stoves, sophistication, and democracy, the gourmet's dream is to taste real meat cooked with real fire, and to drink wine made with real grapes.