This section is from the book "The Table: How To Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It", by Alessandro Filippini. Also available from Amazon: The Table: How To Buy Food, How To Cook It And How To Serve It.
Saw from a fine, white, fresh, and fat loin of veal with the kidney, the spine, and whatever hip-bone remains. Season the loin with a tablest oonful and a half of salt, and one heaped teaspoonful of pepper and roll the flank part neatly over the kidney, and tie it with a string.
Have ready a lightly buttered roasting-pan. Lay in it the loin; pour in half a glassful of water, and distribute a few bits of butter over the meat. Then cover its entire length with a piece of well-buttered paper. Place the pan in a moderate oven, and roast it for one hour and three-quarters, meanwhile basting it frequently with its own gravy. Take it out of the oven, untie it, and place it on a hot serving-dish. Add three tablespoonfuls of broth to the gravy in the pan, skim off the fat and reduce it to the consistency of a demi-glace sauce; then strain it through a colander, either over the roast or into a separate sauce-bowl, and send it to the table immediately.
Loin of lamb, roasted, is to be prepared exactly as above described, letting it cook fifty minutes instead of an hour and three-quarters.
Loin of mutton is also to be roasted and served in the same way, but one hour's cooking will be sufficient.
 
Continue to: