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Free Books / Home Improvements / The Practical Mechanic / | ![]() |
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How Soldering is Done. |
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This section of the book is from the "Household Companion: The Practical Mechanic" book.
The surfaces to be united must be thoroughly cleaned and brightened. Without this the metal will not adhere. The soldering iron must be warmed sufficiently to melt the solder; it must not be made red-hot, because the solder will not " hold to it."
Whilst the iron is warning, tin the surfaces by brushing them over with muriatic acid, dipping them into melted solder, and quickly rubbing off the adherent metal. This, if done well, will leave a thin coat of solder. When it cannot be done thus, the surfaces must be tinned by means of the soldering iron. In this case they must be coated or washed with the acid as before, but the solder must be melted on the places required with the hot iron.
When tinned, the surfaces should be brought close together, a little acid rubbed along the joints, and the iron dipped in the acid and put against some solder, so that the melted solder will stick to the iron. The iron must now be applied to the joints, and drawn slowly along in such a manner that the metal between the joints is melted, and the joints filled up. A little practice will soon make the amateur tolerably skilful in doing this. The muriatic acid, or spirit of salt, as it is sometimes called, must be killed, or rendered neutral, before it is used, and this is done by putting one or two small pieces of zinc into it and allowing it to expend all its energy on this. Killed acid is much more effective than the raw or pure acid. Sometimes resin is used instead of the acid; but the neutralized acid is preferable, because it does not leave the work in such a mess as resin.
Should it be desirable for the solder not to adhere to any portion of the article, a paste must be made with whiting and water, and put about those places; this paste will harden with the heat, but can be removed after the soldering operation is effected.
 
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