We must first mention this celebrated manufactory, which furnished all the countries of Europe with its splendid productions, and even gave its name in Italy to tapestry work. Arazzo is still the term for hangings, and arazzeria that for the manufacture.

We are unable to fix the period of its foundation; in 1351, we already find mention made among some old accounts, of an Arras orphrey; and we have also alluded to the entry in the inventory of Charles V. in 1379, of "Un grand drap de l'oeuvre d'Arras historie des faits et batailles de Judas Machabeus et d'Anthogus".

The names of workmen which have been preserved to us, are those of :

1367. Vincent Bourselle.

1378. Huwart Wallois.

1389 Jehan de Croisetes, Saracenic tapestry weaver, already mentioned.

1398. Robert Pousson, who emigrates to Lille.

1401. Simon Lamoury, id.

1404. Jehan Lamoury, id.

1406. Colard des Gres, id.

1407. Jehan de Ransart, id.

By the simple fact of the emigrations of which we find the trace above, it will be understood how difficult it is to distinguish the Artesian works from those of Flanders, and with what caution a sentence should be pronounced on the origin of the tapestries of the fifteenth century. There is one we have been able to study, thanks to the courtesy of M. Georges Berger, and which, from the subject and the workmanship, appears to us tolerably authentic. The subject relates entirely to the Burgundian vintages; some high personages in elegant costumes of the time of Charles VII. are walking about among the people, busy with the vintage, and wine trade; here they are bringing the fruit; farther on they are filling casks placed on wooden stands; here are some people starting off in a cart; there a man is counting gold pieces on a barrel placed on end. The lord of the vineyard has received a gigantic vine-branch loaded with white grapes, which he seems to be offering for the admiration of the lady with the splendid "hennin" and brocaded garments ornamented with jewels, who accompanies him, followed by her pages, and other persons doubtless attached to her household. The costumes and workmanship of this tapestry render it one of the most curious that can be seen; we can but regret that it should have suffered immensely, and that its colours and even its tissues should be much injured.

If Arras were the true centre of the carpet industry of the middle ages, the misfortunes of war deprived it of its sceptre, and its manufactory had been ruined at the time of the taking of the town by Louis XI. It is an error, therefore, to attribute to Arras the celebrated tapestries executed from the cartoons of Raphael, which are preserved at the Vatican under the name of "Arazzi della scuola vecchia." They came from the Brussels manufactory, and it is under that head we shall speak of them.

Flemish tapestry, interior representing the furniture and costumes of the period of Louis XII, (Collection of M. Orville).