Materials

Red Cedar (Chap. III., Par. 45).

Sufficient number of pieces to make:

2 sides 3/4"x11 1/4"x43" S2S

2 ends 3/4"x11 1/4"xl8" S 2 S

2 pcs. 3/4"x17"x43" S 2 S Top and bottom. 2 pcs. 1/2"xl"x43" S 4 S Lid trim. 2 pcs. 1/2"xl"xl8" S 4 S Lid trim.

4 pcs. 2 3/4"x3"x3" (Glued) S 4 S Legs.

5 pes. sheet copper 2"x6" for trim. 34 tacks to match.

1 pr. hinges with screws. 5 doz. 1 1/4" brads. 5 pes. 1/4"xl2" dowel.

4 castors.

1 pr. copper handles with screws.

1 doz. 1 1/4" No. 10 F. H. B. screws.

Introductory Statement

For a great many years cedar chests have been popular for storing furs, woolens, linens and other fine fabrics where they would be free from moths. Red cedar wood contains a peculiar, everlasting odor which seems to be very unpleasant to insects, at least they will not go about it. This unusual quality, connected with the fact that it will last indefinitely, has made it a very valuable wood.

Red cedar is rather a difficult material to work on account of the knots, however these knots do not lessen its value; in fact, when properly finished, they add to its beauty and fragrance.

References:

The Story of Red Cedar. Red Cedar Chest Co., Statesville, N. C.

Cedar Chest

Suggestions For Original Design

Cedar Chest Specifications

Preparing The Stock

As it is practically impossible to get wide boards of cedar, it will be necessary for you to glue up narrow boards in forming the bottom and top, and also the sides and ends. On account of the knots (a feature which adds beauty and value to the wood), you will find it rather difficult to plane. You must have your plane very keen, and make up your mind to be extremely patient. Square the edges and join them with dowels, making a board of sufficient width for the bottom. In like manner glue up material for the two sides, the two ends and the top. When the glue is thoroughly hardened, with a sharp smoothing plane resurface the boards. It will possibly not be necessary to plane them anywhere except on the joints; the remainder of the surfacing can be done with a sharp steel scraper.

The Sides

Lay out and cut the two sides the dimensions given in the drawing. Be sure they are absolutely square, and exactly the same length and width. Prepare the two ends, and compare to see that they are exactly the same size. You will notice that the side pieces are to be rabbeted to lap over on the ends (this sort of joint is not absolutely necessary; you may join them with a straight butt joint if you desire). The rabbet will not be difficult to make. It is to be laid out with a marking gauge, or a straight edge and sharp-pointed knife; it may be cut down with the back saw, and cut out to the gauge line with a chisel. All the corners are to be formed in the same manner.

Assembling

Assemble your box by nailing through the side pieces into the ends, using small finishing nails or brads. The bottom is to be nailed through into the sides and ends; see that it projects evenly on all sides and at both ends. Test frequently to make sure that the box is perfectly square when the bottom is nailed on.

The triangular strips are glued in each corner to reinforce the joints. They may also be bradded, but this must be very carefully done to avoid disturbing the joints. You should lay the box flat on the side, while driving small brads into the side pieces; then turn it on to the ends when you nail into the end pieces.

The Legs

The legs are to be made the desired shape, and fastened one on each corner with screws from the inside through the bottom, as shown in the drawing.

The Lid

The lid is to be bound on both ends, and on the front edge with a narrow strip which extends a little below the lower edge of the lid, as shown in the drawing. This strip is to be joined at the corners with a mitered joint. It is fastened to the lid with brads driven straight through. Hinge the lid to the back edge of the box; make sure that it fits perfectly and works easily.

The Handles

The handles are to be made the desired shape, and to be fastened with screws from the inside of the box.

The Ornamental Trim

The ornamental trim is of art copper; it may be cut any shape you desire. Some simple design, as shown in the drawing, will be found most pleasing.

Finishing

With a very sharp steel scraper, remove all pencil or tool marks and make every surface perfectly smooth. Finish it with shellac or with rub varnish. Do not stain it, and do not use shellac or any kind of finish on the inside. Leave the natural wood exposed on the inside in order to get the full benefit of its fragrance.

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Covered Bedroom Chest

1. A very much cheaper, and fairly satisfactory, chest may be provided where red cedar is too expensive. This chest may be made of any sort of wood. It should be well constructed, and may be neatly lined on the inside with imitation of cedar paper. On the outside it should be neatly covered with cretonne, denim or some other suitable material.

Window Seat Chest

2. A chest built on the plan shown in Suggestion No. 2 will be found very suitable for a window seat. It may be upholstered or furnished with cushions. It should be finished to correspond with the furniture of the room in which it is to be used.