In using a scraper, it may be grasped as shown in Figs. 82, 83, 84, as best suits the work being done, and the strokes should be with the grain. In using this tool, as in the use of most others, the easiest way generally is the most efficient. As the young workman gains experience, he will gradually acquire the correct methods to use his tools for all the various purposes within their scope.

57. Nail sets are for the purpose of "setting" the nails, or for sinking them below the surface of the wood; and to stand the hard usage to which they are subjected, they must be very carefully tempered. The best form of nail set is that which has a cupped or hollow point, as it is not so apt to slip off of the head of the nail.

Fig. 82. - Method of Grasping the Scraper when Working upon a Broad Surface.

Fig. 83. - Method of Grasping the Scraper when Working within a Small Area.

Fig. 84.- Method of Grasping Scraper when Working upon an Edge.

58. Wrenches are of many kinds and patterns and of every conceivable use, but that known as the "mon key," or "Coe's," wrench (Fig. 85) is perhaps the most convenient for general work and has not been supplanted by any of more recent invention.

59. Handscrews (A.), if of good material and well made, will stand any legitimate use, and if properly used and cared for, will last a lifetime. However, a novice or a careless workman often destroys them rapidly by allowing the jaws to be under strain while in the position shown in

Fig. 86, which will probably break the middle screw, and per haps both.

(B.) In using handscrews for gluing, the jaws should be set to nearly the size of the material which is to be placed between them, before the glue is spread. In placing the hand screws upon the work, the outside screw should be turned back so that it will not prevent the jaws from being slightly closer at the outside screw than at the points. This will allow the strain which is applied in setting up the outside screw, to bring the jaws parallel, which is the only position in which handscrews should be allowed to remain.

Fig. 85. - Monkey Wrench.

Fig. 86. - -Effect of the Unskillful Use of a Handscrew.

In opening or closing a handscrew, the middle screw should be held in the left hand, and the outside screw in the right, as in Fig. 87; the screws should then be grasped so that they will not turn in the hand and the hand-screw revolved in the desired direction. Never put unnecessary strain upon handscrews, nor leave them with a heavy strain upon them for a very long time.

If the work is well fitted, no more strain should be used than is necessary to bring the joints well up, and no work should be glued unless the joints fit well. In any case, the outside screw should be turned back a quarter or a half a turn after the glue has set; this will relieve the strain, and add much to the life of the handscrew.

In gluing work which requires several handscrews to hold it while the glue is setting, the handles of the outside screws all should point one way, which allows the work to be handled much more easily, as the handles of the middle screws will form an even bearing upon the floor. If this is not done, the outside screws will be apt to be broken when a heavy piece of work is being glued and handled; as the weight of the work will rest upon the screws which bear upon the floor.

Fig. 87.- Correct Use of Handscrew.

(C.) Before using new handscrews, the screws should be treated with beeswax and beef tallow, or with black lead mixed with oil or with wax. The latter compound is very dirty; the former lubricates the screws perfectly. The screws should be heated, and the lubricant applied hot.

60. (A.) A grindstone of good quality, from 20" to 26" in diameter, is indispensable to a woodworking shop, and should be used frequently, as the efficiency of cutting tools is much increased if they are kept well ground, and much time may be saved in whetting them.

(B.) In selecting a grindstone, be sure that it is true and round, and of a coarse, even grit, which can be quite satisfactorily determined by examining several and select ing the coarsest, as that will doubtlessly be a fast cutting stone.

(C.) The stone should be carefully centered and mounted upon a frame; the face may be kept true by means of a file or other hard steel being held against it as it revolves, or a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" gas pipe revolved from side to side of the stone as it is turned. Never allow a stone to rest with one side in the water, as it will be made softer and heavier upon that side, and soon worn out of true.

(D.) Do not use one place upon the surface of the stone continually, or a groove will quickly be worn there; in stead, keep the tool moving from side to side. If properly cared for, a stone will hold its face indefinitely.

61. Emery, corundum, carborundum, and other artificial abrasive wheels have in many cases supplanted the grindstone, as they cut much more rapidly. Any one not accustomed to using them must be careful that the temper of the tool is not destroyed, as the wheel runs at a high rate of speed, and a tool in unskillful hands is easily burned. To avoid this, the tool should be held lightly but firmly against the stone, and frequently dipped in water to cool it. If an emery wheel burns badly, it may be because it needs dressing; for this purpose a diamond emery wheel dresser is the best, but on account of its cost, various devices have been patented to accomplish the same result, one of which is illustrated in Fig. 88.

Fig. 88.- Emery Wheel Dresser.