The rustic-work flower stand (Fig. 17) may be 3 ft. high by 3 ft. 6 in. long by 9 in. wide. For the legs, select four curved saplings 3 ft. 3 in. long by 2 1/2 in. in diameter; and as some difficulty may be experienced in obtaining them with the natural curves sufficiently alike, artificial methods of bending must be resorted to. Therefore get the saplings from 2 ft. to 3 ft. longer than the finished length, and bend them to shape by means of the Spanish windlass as shown in Fig. 18. Flexible six-strand fixing wire or stout hemp cord can be used; or a straining screw and link, as employed for tightening fencing wire, will answer equally well; keep the tension on till the wood is curved permanently, the time varying with the nature and condition of the wood, and the strain being applied gradually at intervals. The rails are tenoned to fit mortises in the legs, and battens are nailed to the lower long rails, to support the flower pots (see Fig. 19). The rustic work is then fixed diagonally to the rails. The ends that abut against the legs and centre-piece are pared away so as to make a neat joint, and angle boards are fitted to the under side of the lower rails to support the rustic work where it curves downwards.

The vase shown by Fig. 20 is hexagonal in shape, with vandyked sides fixed to a base supported upon tripod legs, and stands about 3 ft. 3 in. high. Elm boards are suitable for the sides and bottom; they are 1 ft. 3 in. high by 9 in. wide at the top end, and 6 1/2 in. wide at the bottom by 1 in. thick. Shoot the edges of the boards to a bevel of 60°, and fix them with nails driven as shown at Fig. 21. When the six sides are completed, prepare the hexagon baseboard to suit. Bore holes in it for drainage, and also bore three equidistant holes, 1 1/4 in. in diameter, at an angle of about 60°, for the tenons of the legs to enter (see Fig. 22). Next screw the base to the sides, and fix on the barked rustic work. The twigs for this should be seasoned at least one year before using. They are sawn in halves, straight twigs being selected for the purpose. If necessary, shoot the edges slightly, so as to obtain a closer fit when fixing them in parallel. Begin by attaching the lower border to the hexagonal base, then the upright pieces over the angles, hollowed as shown at Fig. 23; next fix the top sloping pieces, and finally the horizontal twigs. The legs are nailed at the base of the vase (see Fig. 22);

Fig. 17. - Flower-pot Stand.

Fig. 18. - Method of Bending Saplings.

Fig. 19, - Fixing Rails, etc., to Posts.

Fig-, 20. - Vase on Tripod Stand.

Fig, 21. - Joint of Hexagon Sides of Vase.

Fig. 23. - Section of Twigs at Angles of Vase.

Fig-. 22. - Securing Sides and Legs of Vase to Base.

Fig. 24.

Fig. 25.

Figs. 24 and 25. - Side and End Elevations of Flower-pot Stand.

and at the centre, where they cross, they are further secured with twigs, which do the duty of rungs, as shown in Fig. 20.

The flower stand shown in front and end view by Figs. 24 and 25 has accommodation for sixteen pots. The two uprights are 2 ft. 8 in. high by about 2 1/2 in. in diameter. The three rails are 2 ft. 9 in. long, and are tenoned to the posts as shown by Fig. 26; the posts are also tenoned and nailed to the sills (bottom rails), and strutted, as shown in 'Fig. 25. The method of fixing the shelves A and b (Fig. 24) is shown in Fig. 27, which is an under-side view; struts are also fitted, as shown in Fig. 25. The method of fixing the centre shelves is indicated at Fig. 28. The shelf, and also the struts c, d, e, and e1 (Figs. 24 and 25), are fixed to the centre rail; then the top diagonal braces are nailed to both the shelf and the top rail, thus keeping the whole secure. The remainder of the work calls for no special instructions. Split twigs are used for the fencing around the shelves.

Fig. 26. - Joining Rails of Flowerpot Stand to Uprights.

Fig. 27. - Method of Supporting End Shelves of Flower-pot Stand at a and b (Fig. 24).

Fig. 28. - Fixing Centre Shelves of Flower-pot Stand.

Fig. 29. - Large Square Vase.