THE tools used for the above work differ considerably from those used for soft wood, which they will not, in fact, cut so as to produce a good surface. The gouge and chisel are, however, still used, and, generally speaking, the former is the roughing-down tool. But hard wood admits of much finer beads and mouldings, and will take a higher polish, and it can be covered with a network of fine tracery and delicate carving, which is quite impossible in the case of soft wood. Screws, moreover, can be cut upon this material, either coarse or fine, which can only be managed with difficulty on soft wood, on which also, if cut, the pitch must be coarse. All hard-wood tools lie flat on the rest, and are, in consequence, easy to use, and whatever the profile of the edge may be, it is, of necessity repeated on the work, if the tool is held still, such profile being, of course, reversed. The tools are of various shapes for cutting to right and left, turning hollows, and beads and mouldings. The more general ones are illustrated here, so far as their cutting edges are concerned.

A, Plate VI., the flat tool, is sharpened on both sides as well as on the edge; B, C, bevel tools, are sharpened in the same way (the bevels of all the tools shown being supposed to be underneath) ; D, similarly sharpened, is the round tool, used for turning hollows, and sometimes for roughing-down hard wood and ivory, instead of the gouge; E, the bead tool, is made of all widths for turning beads and small spheres, like those on the head of a chess pawn; F is sharpened only on the end of the bent part - it is an inside parting tool, and is made in sets with longer or shorter bent part; G is a side view of an ordinary parting tool - it cuts at the extreme end, and is ground thinner downwards to about A on each side, so as to cut itself clear; H, I, J, are inside, or right and left, tools, cutting on the ends and sides for hollowing out work - they vary in shape as shown; K, is ground all round the outside of the curve, and is used to hollow out bulging or spherical work, like a humming-top - so also is L; M is a bead and astragal, turning a bead with flats on each side; Q is a ring tool - for instance, in turning a curtain ring on wood, E would round it on the outside, and Q on the inner face: all such tools are made of various sizes, and can be had in complete sets; R is a point tool, for turning angular grooves, and, like D, it is often used for roughing-down work; P is a reeding tool, and is practically a row of small beading tools; N, O, are a pair of chasing tools, for cutting outside and inside screws - they are made of various pitches, coarse and fine. The average price of these tools is Is. 6d. Screw tools vary in price, according to pitch. It is not easy to determine how many to buy, but perhaps three different sizes of D, E, F, and Q, will do for a start, as these can be added to as may prove necessary, and the parcel post now brings all such tools within easy reach of country customers. A slight sketch of the tool required, with size needed, will enable a tool-dealer to supply it. Handles are from one penny each and upwards, and for these beech is preferable to hard wood.

PLATE VI. - TOOLS FOR HARD WOOD AND IVORY.

The hard-wood cylinder can be turned wholly with the gouge and chisel, if the latter lies flat on the rest, with the leading angle kept clear, so as not to mark it. But a chisel thus held is so quickly blunted, that the flat tool, which is thicker, and ground with a shorter bevel, is for this purpose superior to it. The leading angle in this case, also, is kept clear. The cylinder must, of course, be first reduced to nearly the required size by the gouge or round tool, or both, leaving the flat tool as little work as possible. With some woods, a very thin tool for the final touches proves the best, and this is held as a mere scraping tool slightly underhand - that is, the edge depressed below the level of centres, instead of being applied horizontally. The ends may be trimmed by the parting tool if anything has to be cut off, and finished by a side tool or point tool held at the required angle. All is easier than the manipulation of the soft-wood tools. Hollow work is commenced by drilling a hole with either a twist drill or nose bit, held in a tool handle, or with a round tool, and enlarging it with the latter, or with one of the bevel or inside tools; and if the recess is to be flat at bottom, like that of a box, the flat tool will level it accurately, and with ease.

Bowls and tazzas, egg-cups, vases, etc, are worked also with any of the round end or other suitable tools, held flat on the rest and swept round the curve. The last cuts have to be made slowly and lightly, taking the whole surface, if possible, without stopping, so as to prevent any lines or tool-marks remaining visible.

In turning beads and mouldings, it is almost necessary economy to spare the beautifully made tools by which this kind of work is done. The tools are easily damaged, as the points are fine, and in the smaller sizes the tools are necessarily slender. Hence, it is usual to reduce the parts just as much as possible with point tool, chisel, or bevel tools, and with these to bring the bead or moulding to its approximate size and shape. Then the beading tool has but to clear away the irregularities and finish the bead to a perfect curve. In the use of the above-named tools, the rest is placed just below the level of centres, so as to allow for the thickness of the tool itself. Although, however, the latter is, as a rule, held level and horizontal, it is sometimes tilted up a little in finishing off a surface. All such variations of position must be decided at the time, and their expediency or otherwise will only appear after some amount of practice. Much depends upon the wood, of which some specimens are far more troublesome than others to bring to a good surface. The maximum of such trouble I have found to accrue in the case of a bit of canary wood turned plank-way and cut into a bowl.