Three steps are taken in order to put a finish on most work: e. g., (a) staining, (b) filling and (c) varnishing. The first and second of these steps, that of staining and filling, are not always employed. Sometimes it is desired to keep the wood in its natural color, and in such cases the filler is the first to be applied. Then, again, close-grained woods, such as maple, need no filling of the pores; such woods are more often oiled, then polished.

Staining work on the lathe is quite the same as for cabinet work. The wood must be carefully sandpapered and free from all grease. Apply the stain to the work with a brush held in the right hand, while the left hand gently revolves the lathe, Fig. 28.

Do not allow the lathe to work at high speed; otherwise the stain will be driven in all directions by the centrifugal force, instead of soaking into the wood as desired. All stained work should be allowed to dry-about 8 or 10 hours; some stains require a longer time. When a water or spirit stain is used, it will be necessary to sandpaper the wood lightly after the stain is dry. If the wood requires filling, fill with the proper colored filler; allow another day for drying; then polish or varnish.

Fig. 28. Applying Stain.

By polishing we mean French Polishing, Fig. 29; that is, using shellac as the polishing agent, and boiled linseed oil as a lubricating agent. The proportion of shellac to oil must be governed by experience. It is customary for the polisher to have two receptacles, one for shellac, the other for oil. A dab of shellac is put on the polishing cloth, one thickness of the cloth is folded over, and a few drops of oil added. The cloth is then brought in contact with the work and as the lathe revolves, the cloth is run back and forth so as to cover all parts evenly. If too much shellac has been applied, the cloth will stick or pull rather hard. On the other hand, if too much oil has been added, the polish can be rubbed off entirely by passing a dry finger over the work while the lathe is stationary. In either case more of one or the other must be added. Should the polish be too thick and look streaky, simply take the same cloth and by a little friction burn the shellac and cause it to flow again so that it can be run off the work entirely or put on in a more even manner.

Fig. 29. French Polishing.

French polishing is by far the quickest way of finishing, but does not wear well and on large surfaces is difficult to get on evenly. For the best finish, after having stained and filled the wood, apply two coats of thin shellac, allowing 12 hours for each to harden, and then lightly sandpaper each coat. For a finish that is to be rubbed to a high gloss, apply not fewer than three coats of a good hard rubbing varnish, allowing three days for each coat to dry, and one week for the last one. Sandpaper rightly each coat. The final coat is rubbed with fine pumice stone powder and water, washed off, and followed with rottenstone powder and water, washed off clean and rubbed with the palm of the hand. This produces the highest possible polish if carried out carefully. For an egg shell gloss rub only with pumice stone powder and crude oil.

Varnishing must be done with the greatest of care, in a dustless room with a temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. In order to insure an even coat, it is advisable to flow the varnish on rather heavily, dabbing it into all corners; then immediately take up the superfluous varnish by brushing out thoroly and wiping the brush when heavy over the edge of the cup. Some varnishes require more brushing out than others in order to make them lay evenly; this can be learned only by experience.