By following the directions here given, a horse-drawn buggy can he rebuilt at moderate cost into a self-propelled vehicle, which, though roughly made, will give good results and prove satisfactory.

The frame is of angle iron, 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/4 inches, cut 6 inches longer than the distance from the front to the rear spring of the buggy, and bent cold 3 inches from the ends, as in Fig. 318. Triangular pieces should be sawed out where the corners are to come, and the bending done little by little. The body hangers or spring bars for the front and rear can be made of wood, as indicated. Drill a 3/8-inch hole at each end, and fit large-head carriage holts, with the heads inserted in the wood. About 1 1/2 inches from the edge of the dash (inside) and the same distance from the rear panel of body, drill 3/8-inch holes for body bolts, and 3 inches from the front and rear of the engine hangers cut 1/2-inch for 1/2-inch bolts.

Fig. 317 - Plan and side elevation of the assembled buggy.

The engine and transmission should be placed under the center of the seat, to avoid cutting the floor boards. The supports should be secured to the angle-iron side members of the frame with three 1/2-inch carriage bolts, one on each end and one as near the center as the transmission shaft and starting crankshaft will allow without striking. The holes in the side members should be slotted to provide for chain adjustment, and made large enough to insert the square of the bolts, to prevent them from turning when loosened. Power-plant hangers can be bought, or may be made as shown in Fig. 319. Holes of 3/8-inch diameter should be drilled in the frame for the steering-post supports where the steering wheel will be most convenient, which can be determined by trying the wheel in different positions. The distance can then be marked off from the inside of the dash.

Fig. 318 - Angle iron frame with wooden spring bars.

The engine should be fastened securely to the engine hangers, and the transmission bolted to the fly-wheel or coupling before babbitting the transmission bearing. Cut two washers out of wood to fit easily over the shaft, making the inner washer in two parts, so that it can be fitted around the shaft after the hanger is in place. Putty all cracks where there is danger of the Babbitt metal running through. Drill one 5/16-inch hole near each end of the hearing on top, and one 1/2-inch hole in the center for pouring. Build three cones around the holes, the largest one around the center hole and about 3/4 inch high. Heat the bearing until it gets hot, but not red, before pouring. When melting the babbitt, put about a teaspoonful of resin in the ladle to make it flow better. To tell when the babbitt is hot enough, insert a perfectly dry stick for a second or two, and if it begins to char or to blaze, the metal is ready. Continue to pour steadily until the bearing and the pouring hole are full, and if the babbitt settles below the holes, pour in more while hot. As this buggy is driven by one rear wheel only, no differential countershaft is needed, and only one brake drum, drive chain, and set of sprockets is required. Driving sprockets for the transmission shaft and rear wheel can be bought from the manufacturers or dealers. To insure that the wheel sprocket will be concentric with the hub and run true, it is advisable, when marking out holes for the brake drum, to mark one first, then secure the drum to the wheel with one clip, place the wheel on the axle, and hold a stick on the axle. Now revolve the wheel and shift the drum repeatedly until the stick touches all around. Then mark off more holes, two at every fourth spoke (if it is a 16-spoke wheel) and clam]) spring clips to the wheel and revolve as before until it runs true. Finally, mark off two holes for clamps to straddle every second spoke.

Fig. 319 - Plan and elevation of engine hangers.

Brake bands, cams, and hanger set can be bought or can be made, as shown in Fig. 320.

Steering rods are secured to the front axle as in the plan view and are fitted with turnbuckles. The length of chain passes around the rear are of a sprocket on the lower end of the steering post, which should be in the same horizontal plane as the axle. The steering wheel and column complete can be bought.

When setting the spark and throttle controls, it is advisable to have them drawn as far to the rear as possible, the spark lever on the right and the throttle lever on the left. Set the commutator or timer arm backward also (provided, of course, the timing shaft turns in the opposite direction from the crankshaft) and make the rods of the right lengths to enable you to get the timer lever all the way back.

Fig. 320 - Expanding brake sleeves and operating rod.