Use of Scissors. - Hold the scissors with the thumb and second linger.

Cut slowly on the line with light coming from the left.

Begin to cut as near the pivot as possible and avoid cutting the whole length of the blade. The cutting action of the scissors can be better controlled if only short distances are attempted with each cut.

The scissors should open with ease, but the joint must not be too loose. It is well to have a piece of cloth to wipe off the scissors after and particularly before using, as the dust which may have collected between the blades often makes the scissors open with difficulty.

Good scissors can be bought for $1.80 to $3 a dozen, and no cheaper ones should be used for this work. Scissors five to six inches in length are convenient sizes.

Select such as have one blunt point. After having been sharpened this is used for scoring in the second year.

Folding.- In folding place one edge of the rule on the dotted line, and with the fingers placed under the cardboard bend it upward towards the rule, creasing it to an angle of ninety degrees. Then remove rule and press the crease more firmly. In creasing small surfaces, like laps for instance, it is well to use a small paper folder instead of the fingers for bending the cardboard.

The above applies to the folding in the first year and the first eight models of the second year. For the rest of the models in the second year a thicker grade of cardboard is used, and the folding is done after scoring with the blunt point of the scissors.

Punching. - This exercise is done with an ordinary conductor's punch, which makes a hole ⅛" diameter. It is desirable to have one punch to every six pupils in the class. After having located the places for the holes each pupil in turn can punch the holes in his model.

Tying. - The pupils should be taught how to tie a square knot. This might best be illustrated to the class by showing the position of the two ends with a thick piece of string or cord.

Knitting cotton serves the purpose best because it fills up the holes and so gives a good appearance to the model, but any kind of twine may be used.

Pasting. - It is a good plan to have each pupil supplied with a five-cent tube of photo-library paste, but a far more inexpensive, although not so convenient, way is to buy large tubes and distribute the paste on pieces of paper. It may be conveniently applied with a tooth-pick or a small strip of cardboard.

In pasting some of the larger models where several surfaces are fastened together, it is well to apply the paste to one or two surfaces at a time and then hold them together for half a minute, and after-wjirds continue pasting the other surfaces in the same way, instead of applying all the paste at once.

Scoring. - This exercise consists in cutting half through the cardboard to make folding easier.

The best tool for this is the knife, but the use of scissors for the purpose would prove perfectly satisfactory, if the blunt point of one of the blades is sharpened for the purpose. This exercise should not be introduced before Model 9, Second Year.

Cardboard. - Two thicknesses of cardboard are used. For the first year and the first eight models of the second year's course, the weight is 100 pounds to 500 sheets. For the rest of the second year, 140 pounds to 500 sheets.

It may be secured of different shades and colors. The gray varieties will be found the best for the majority of the models. In selecting the thinner cardboard see that it can be creased without breaking.

Drawing. - To make exact cutting possible it is necessary to have fine distinct lines. A hard pencil is therefore preferable, although not so hard that it will tear the paper or cardboard.

For the first year it is best to have a rule giving ⅛" as the smallest fraction, but for the second year 1/16" is necessary.

If only one triangle is supplied the 45° is preferable. The size should be 6" or larger.

The following lines are used in the drawings:

Heavy solid lines for the outline of an object.

Light solid lines for construction lines.

One-half inch dash lines for dimension lines. These lines should be light and made of dashes about ½" long with ⅛" spaces between them.

One-eighth inch dash lines for extension lines and to indicate folding. They are made of dashes about ⅛" long with ⅛" spaces between them.

In placing dimensions upon a drawing a dash line should be drawn from one point to another between which the dimension is to be given, and the actual dimension should be placed in the line, a space having been left for it in the centre.

Arrow-heads are placed at the ends of these lines, the points of the arrow-heads exactly touching the points or lines between which the dimension is to be given.

The figures for dimensions should read from the left or from the bottom of the drawing.

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The dividing line in a fraction should always be made in line with the dimension line. Place the dimension lines at least ¼" outside the figure.

When an arc of a circle is shown, give the radius, and draw a very small circle about the centre, and let this small circle take the place of an arrow-head.