This section is from the book "School Needlework. A Course of Study in Sewing designed for use in Schools", by Olive C. Hapgood. Also available from Amazon: School Needlework: A Course Of Study In Sewing Designed For Use In Schools.
1. Draw the threads, and baste the hem as before.
2. Fasten the thread in the hem, at the left-hand side.
3. Pointing the needle towards you, take up three or four cross-threads.
4. Draw the needle through, and insert it in the fold of the hem exactly above where it was inserted under the cross-threads (Fig. 88).
5. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread tight.
To draw the threads, choose a coarse thread, one-fourth of an inch from the edge, and pick it out with the point of the needle. Holding this end with the right hand, draw it out carefully, continually pushing the gathers towards the opposite end with the left hand. Should the thread break, hold the cloth to the light, and again pick out the end of the thread. The chief difficulty is in drawing the first thread. Threads can be drawn any width desired.
Hem-stitching can be done either lengthwise or crosswise of the cloth. On fine materials, do not count the threads, as it is too great a strain on the eyes, and for this reason, school-girls should not do much drawn-work.
Fig. 88. - Showing hem-stitching done from left to right, needle in position.