Few people know how very nice the English smoked and dried fish can be when cooked in a paper-bag and seasoned in the French fashion. Take four soft-roed bloaters, bone them, fill the cavities with a little (about half a teaspoonful to each bloater) finely-minced shallot or chives and parsley. Add a few fresh breadcrumbs and tiny bits of butter. If liked, a tiny grate of nutmeg may be added as well as a good dust of pepper. Put into a well-greased bag, and bake in the oven for ten minutes. Dish up and serve as hot as possible. Kippers are excellent, and are prepared in the same way, minus the boning process. (350 Fahr.).