Fig. 124

Sawing With Hand And Tenon Saw

Planing

Horizontal And Vertical Paring

Boring And Nailing.

Tools Used

Hand and tenon saw, jack plane, 1/4 in. and 3/4-in. firmer chisels, bradawl, hammer and square, brace and 3/8-in. centre bit.

Timber Required

A piece of yellow deal 1ft. 4 ins. long by 3 3/4 ins. by 1/2 in., cut from a board with a hand saw, as in Model I.

The drawing of this exercise may be either the development of the parts, or the plan, front, and side elevation. In the case of the more apt pupils, the isometric projection may be made instead of the plan, elevation, and side elevation, but the development must be made.

Having executed the drawing, prepare the wood by planing it up to the dimensions. When true, a line should be made across at, say, 1/4 in. from one end.

Saw off the small portion outside this line, leaving 1/32 in. to be removed. Plane away this small amount, cutting off one corner with a chisel first, and leave the wood true and square to the cut line. Draw on the wood or 'set out' the development, as in fig. 124. Square cut lines over the face for the width of the back and the depth of the sides.

It will be noticed that the two sides are right and left handed, the groove being in one case on the left and in the other on the right hand side.

Make cut lines to indicate the grooves, and on both the face edge and the opposite edge, gauge a line 1/8 in. deep opposite the marked grooves, to indicate their depth. Draw lines from the face edge of the back 1/2 in. long to the angles of the top of the back, and mark the horizontal lines with the gauge, and the inclined lines with a pencil. With a fine sharp pencil mark out the corners of the sides which have to be cut off.

It will be found better to cut out the grooves now before sawing the back, sides, and bottom apart, as the large piece of wood is easier to handle than the separate smaller pieces.

Saw down in the grooves to the gauged lines on the edges and pare out the waste with the chisel, as in Exercises I. and II. Now saw the back, sides, and bottom apart, leaving 1/32 in, On both sides of each piece, to be planed away in finishing, or the pupil would find himself with the alternative of finishing his model under the dimensions, or of leaving portions of it rough sawn. Plane up these sawn edges in the shooting board.

It will be noticed that the bottom of the box slopes towards the back, to allow the moisture to drain towards the slot. The back edge of the bottom, therefore, must be bevelled with a plane so that it fits against the back.

Saw down from the back edge of the bottom 1/8 in. as marked, and pare out the waste to make the slot, as in fig. 124. Now turning to the sides, saw off the corners, leaving the pencil lines just in, and remove these by vertical paring with a 1/2-in. or 3/4-in. chisel, as in Exercise V., or put the piece of wood in the vice and pare off the small amount of waste. Now with the tenon saw cut out the pieces to be removed in the top of the back, and pare down to the pencil line, as in the case of the corners of the sides.

If the hands of the operator are clean, as they always should be in doing neat work, the model wall not be much soiled. However, if it is necessary, glass-paper may be lightly used, and care should be taken not to destroy the sharp corners and edges so indicative of good work.

Bore the hole in the back to hang the box up by, with a 3/8-in.

Fig. 125.

centre bit. Fig. 125 shows the operation, which is simple, only requiring care in placing the pin of the bit in the centre of the drawing of the hole, and in holding the brace firmly upright.

When the point of the bit appears through the back, stop boring, and finish from the reverse side.

The object of this is to prevent the back of the wood being splintered as the cutters of the bit come through, which would be very likely to happen.

Now put the model together, putting the sides into the back grooves, and the bottom into the side grooves, and in this order.

Fig. 126.

To hold the bottom into its place, it is nailed from the sides, and three holes are bored with a bradawl to take the nails, as shown in the isometric projection.

Hold the bradawl, as in fig. 126, with the blade at right angles to the grain of the wood, and in boring push the tool continually, and at the same time keep up a succession of twisting movements alternately to right and left, with the stem of the bradawl as a pivot, making about one-sixth of a revolution at each turn. Should the blade of the bradawl be pressed in the least out of the vertical position, it will be liable to snap off.

Hold the brads in the finger and thumb, as in the illustration (fig. 127), and the hammer as shown, taking care to grasp it at the end of the handle. Tap the head of the nail, which should be an oval steel brad about 1 in. long, and having entered it, take away the supporting fingers, and drive the nail in by a succession of good square blows, which should not be too hard.

Fig. 127.

When the head is nearly level with the wood, the punch and hammer should be used to drive it still further in, so that it is just beneath the surface.