This section is from the "Hand Sewing Lessons" book, by Sarah Ewell Krolik. Also available from Amazon: Hand Sewing Lessons: A Graded Course For Schools And For The Home.
Two lengthwise pieces of cotton, 2x4 inches, with selvedge edges.
Nainsook, 1x6 inches, for a ruffle. Lace, 7 inches.
Use No. 70 thread for the first two pieces and to gather and join the ruffle. Use No. 100 thread and No. 11 needle for the ruffle.
Overhand the selvedge edges, roll and hem the opposite sides, and finish the ends with 1/4. inch hem at the top, and 1/2 inch hem at the bottom.
Illustration 42. Sewing lace on a rolled hem.
Overhand the ruffle to the 1/2 inch hem. Hold the gathers toward you, sew through each, and carry the thread between them for the next stitch.
Practice, by sewing lace on the rolled edge of a handkerchief or a ruffle, before making the model.
Illustration 43. Represents Model 27 (Rolled Hems And Rolled Gathers).
Roll and hem the ends of the ruffle, roll one edge between the left forefinger and thumb, and overhand it to the lace. Roll the opposite edge tightly for gathers, and sew over and over it loosely for the space of an inch, and draw the thread. Roll, and continue as before.
A rolled hem is for fine goods, and is the narrowest that is made. If lace is to be fulled on, take two stitches in the lace to one in the hem, or draw it with a thread.