Fig. 205

This is an easy and attractive model. All the drawings in fig. 205 should be made, and an isometric sketch can be executed as well, but the shape of the curved handle is difficult for children in this case if drawn isometrically.

Yellow deal will be good enough to make this model from, though, of course, it can be made of any more ornamental timber.

One piece, 1 ft. long, 9 ins. wide, and 3/8 in. thick, will be required for the bottom of the tray, and two strips, 1 ft. long by 2 ins. wide and 3/8 in. thick, for the upright sides. For the sloping ends two pieces, 8 1/2 ins. long by 2 1/4 ins. wide and 3/8 in. thick, are wanted. The middle handled division is somewhat deeper than the sides; the dimensions for this piece may be 3 1/8 ins. wide and 11 ins. long by 3/8 in. thick.

Sectional elevation on a b.

Plan.

Section on 0.

Fig. 205.

Plane up all the wood to the required thickness - 1/4 in., and set out the sides. The two sloping sides can be marked out to the dead length, 7 7/8 ins., and the grooves marked on them. To obtain absolute similarity, they should be held together and marked simultaneously on the face edges, the lines being afterwards continued across the back of each piece, so as to show the face or best side outwards in the completed tray. The two upright sides should be similarly marked on the face edges, and with the bevel set at 100° the grooves and ends can be marked across the back. The four sides can now be cut off to their proper length, and the grooves cut out with tenon saw and chisel. Nail the sides together, as in fig. 206, using 3/4 -in. oval steel brads. In driving these in, make the two end ones incline towards each other, as shown. This is done to give greater strength against any outward pressure on the sides. The edges of the sloping sides now project on their outer angles, and should be planed down flush with the edges of the sides.

The handle should now be prepared by cutting out the two large top curves with a bow saw and making the hole for the fingers. After boring the two holes which form the ends of the curved opening, they can be connected by sawing with bow saw, or by vertical paring with a small firmer chisel, and the rounded curve (see section) produced with a file. The small concave curve at each end should not be made yet. The handle should be cut off to the exact angle, and to the proper length. Insert the handle, making sure it fits the grooves in the ends accurately, and nail it in from the outside of each end, in the same manner as the sides were nailed together.

Next, plane the bottom on the edges, to the exact dimensions, and nail it on to the framing. There is considerable risk of driving a nail so as to show its point through the side of the tray. To prevent this, place the framing on the bottom, and with a pencil draw round the inside of each half at the junction of the sides and bottom, and then draw parallel lines to these 1/8 in. further out. This will give the precise place to insert the nails. About four in each piece will be enough, and these, like those in the side, should be inclined somewhat to give greater strength.

Holes should be carefully bored for the nails, to lessen the danger of breaking through the sides. The holes for the nails in the sloping ends must slope at the same angle, and to make sure of getting them correct, they should be bored from the inside, and the nails put in where the point of the bradawl comes through on the outside.

The small concave curves at the ends of the long sides, and the central division, should be pared out with a chisel reversed - i.e., with its back downwards.

The method of using the chisel to form this curve is indicated to some extent in fig. 206. As the edge is pushed in away from the pupil, the handle should be depressed, as indicated by the arrow. The curve should be lightly touched with file and glass-paper, but the chisel, in the first instance, must be used to make the curve as true as possible.