This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Designing from Shirtwaist Sleeve. Bishop or Bell Sleeve. - Very full at hand, hanging loose over a close puffed under sleeve, or gathered into a very narrow cuff. Fold pattern; measure out from lower front edge for desired amount of fulness, connect this point with the elbow by slightly curved line; measure below edge of sleeve at fold one and one and one-half inches and draw curve from this point to end of inside seam line; extend line of fold to meet curve.
Fig. 71. - Bishop sleeve B, and sleeve without fulness at top A, designed from shirtwaist sleeve pattern.
If a very full sleeve is desired, add to back of fold and inside seam (Fig. 716).
A shirtwaist sleeve may be made into a close-fitting one-piece sleeve by one or two methods: (a) Place a graduated tuck at elbow on the under side of the sleeve, at right angles to the seam, keeping sleeve folded, the tuck to be deep enough at the seam, to draw the under sleeve up, so that the lower edge from the seam line of the upper sleeve to the fold equals one-half the hand measure. Test, inside length elbow and hand measures (Fig. 720). (b) Place a tuck or dart extending from just below the elbow to the wrist. Measure on the elbow line from center fold on under side of sleeve one and one-half inches. At the wrist one-half inch from fold on upper sleeve. Dart line connecting these two points folded over to meet the point at wrist, which will give the hand measure. Spring dart out again, below wrist if flare is desired (Fig. 72A and B).
Measure the armhole of waist pattern. Also the top of sleeve pattern, then measure each side the center fold of sleeve, one-half the difference between the two measures, and fold a graduated tuck through the length of the sleeve ending at nothing at the wrist. Re-shape the top of sleeve after tuck is taken out (Fig. 71 A). Fulness may be added by reverse method, slashing and separating the pattern until the correct amount is gained.
Fig. 72. - Designing close-fitting sleeve from shirtwaist sleeve pattern; A, using dart from elbow to wrist; B, completed sleeve; C, using tuck at elbow.