This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Batiste (plain or embroidered), in white or color. Voile (plain or embroidered), in white or color. Crepe (plain or embroidered), in white or color. Handkerchief linen, in white or color. Swiss (embroidered), in white or color. Dimity (striped or cross-barred).
Self-trimming.....Tucks or plaits; ruffles, puffings.
German or French, Cluny, Irish.
Simplicity and daintiness should be the keynote of the design and construction of a lingerie dress. With this in mind, study the tendencies of the prevailing fashions, the lines that are followed, the fabrics that are used; choose of the same, that which you will use; then design your dress so that it will embody, but not in the extreme, some of the features of the costumes of the day, and be suitable for the material chosen, while conforming in a pleasing way to the lines of your own figure.
With the kimono waist we find fewer tucks or plaits. With the simple shirtwaist we find a greater tendency toward the use of tucks and plaits, while with both, fashion alternates elbow length and full length sleeves, high and open neck lines.
Calculate (using pattern) the quantity of material you will need for the waist.
It is well to shrink the materials, especially crepe, before making them up. If the waist is to be ornamented, with tucks or needlework, this should all be done before placing the pattern for cutting.
Lay a box plait or hem not more than one inch in width for the right hand side of the opening, either back or front, and a hem on the opposite edge, one-eighth inch narrower; or a hem and fly opening may be used (Fig. 135). Plan and lay the tucks, being careful to match them at the shoulder seam if they are more than thread tucks (Fig. 70). Sew the tucks with fine running stitches. Be careful to run a basting thread through tucks that extend to the neck so they will be turned in the right direction; and kept so until the collar is placed. See that the tucks on the shoulder also turn in the right direction. Tucks should also be placed in the material for the sleeves, before cutting. Hand-run tucks and seams give a note of distinction to the waist.
Any ornamentation of this kind should also be applied to the material before cutting out. Block out the outline of the waist from a carefully fitted pattern and stamp the pattern for the embroidery within this outline and do the work before cutting. If the design is to be carried over the shoulder seam, it may be necessary to cut and finish this before stamping the pattern, but do not cut any other part of the waist. All small pieces, such as collars, cuffs and belts should be tucked or embroidered before cutting. When lace is to be used for ornamentation, if set into the waist in a pattern, stitch and finish the shoulder seam, put the waist on a form or open up the underarm seam, lay waist flat on table, and apply the lace, baste and try the waist on to see if the design is pleasing. If so, hem or stitch the lace to place before closing the underarm seam. Apply lace to sleeve in the same way.