Although this chapter professes to be a monograph, it hardly comes within the writer's province to enter into the question of rearing and keeping Retrievers, as the best methods are identical with such as should be adopted in the case of any sporting dog. Suffice it to say that those who wish to breed and keep a fairly large team of dogs should not attempt to rear all their puppies at home; they should follow the example of Masters of Hounds, and billet them, or most of them, out "at walk" with neighbouring farmers, tradesmen, and cottagers, and allow them to remain, if possible, until they have passed through the distemper ordeal. Taking one class of puppy-walker with another, the writer must award the palm to butchers, or such of the fraternity who obviously take more than a casual interest in their charges; at any rate, the fact remains that two-thirds of his prize winners have spent their early days at the abattoir. In order to induce a special interest, the writer has been in the habit of offering bonuses - over and above the stipulated charges for keep - for walkers who send in their puppies in fine health and condition. Furthermore, they receive an extra bonus the first time that their quondam charge gains a first prize. Such a system works admirably, and it is astounding how keen these good people become. They often attend shows and identify the success of their bantlings with themselves. When the youngsters are called in from walk, distemper is almost certain to break out amongst those that have not already had it; so that the kennelman should be fully prepared to combat the fell fiend. Without wishing to enter upon a dissertation on distemper, it may be instructive to give what the writer, in a somewhat extended experience, has found to be the elements of successful treatment: -

1. Give as little medicine as possible.

2. Keep in an even temperature.

3. Feed constantly with small amounts of nourishment at a time - Bovril, Brand's or Valentine's Extract, beef-tea, boiled milk, etc., and later on with fish (carefully "boned") and wholemeal bread; but avoid all other solid foods and meat.

4. When the temperature rises above 102° Fahr., give a febrifuge - phenacitin is the best.

5. When there is any sign of pulmonary trouble, wrap the chest and ribs tightly with flannel on which raw turpentine has been sprinkled; or rub the skin with dry mustard powder and wrap around with flannel. Avoid, like poison, all wet bandages. Sometimes it is the custom to soak the flannel bandages in hot water, and then sprinkle the turpentine; but this is a grave error: it makes the patient's bedding damp, and when the effect of the turpentine has worn off, a chilly reaction sets in, which is nearly always fatal.

6. When there is a copious discharge from the nostrils and eyes, bathe with a weak solution of Condy's Fluid, and carefully dry with a soft towel.

To sum up: give constant liquid nourishment; keep carefully from any suggestion of dampness, and in an even temperature. Above all, never despair, for the very worst cases often take a sudden turn for the better; on the other hand, relapses are of frequent occurrence. So that vigilance must never be relaxed until the patient is restored to perfect health.

The early training of a young Retriever is a matter of the greatest importance: a false or tactless move may mar the prospects of the most promising puppy, whilst the clever seizing of an opportunity may make him. In nine cases out of ten, those that are bred from orthodox strains are natural retrievers, have tender mouths, and good noses, and it really only remains for the breaker to "steady" them; but this is where the chief difficulty lies, for these carefully bred creatures are excessively keen and high-couraged, and will take many a "hiding" before they refrain from running in directly they see game floored. It is a grave mistake to throw things for young puppies to retrieve; it is this practice that is mainly responsible for the unsteadiness which is so hard to correct. When a youngster has been thus taught to fetch and carry, his natural impulse is to rush in, and lift a bird directly he sees it touch the ground, and he will do this in the case of game that alights after having been flushed, even when not hit, or not even fired at, for the eyesight of a Retriever is very keen, and he seldom fails to note or mark down his bird. The puppy should be induced to carry in his mouth soft articles, such as tobacco pouches, bundles of feathers, etc., and any attempt to bite or mouth his burden should be at once kindly but firmly checked. He should be induced to relinquish his hold directly the word "Dead" is spoken. Then the dummy should be placed on the ground, and the pupil taken a few yards away and sent to pick it up. The distance may be gradually increased, until the dog will take any reasonable journey to retrieve the object. Next the article may be thrown, and the puppy carefully checked from starting, until he receives the command "Seek dead," or "Hie lost." As soon as proficiency and tractability are fully established in this direction, our youngster may be entered to living flesh. Take a pinioned pigeon and put it in the dog's mouth, keeping a vigilant look-out that he carries it tenderly and without mouthing it. Next take a pigeon whose wings have been clipped, but not sufficiently to prevent it from fluttering to the ground from a height without violent impact. Take your pupil up one side of a hedge, and send your man with the pigeon on the other. At a given signal the bird is tossed over, and flutters to the ground. Restrain your puppy for a few minutes, then send him to retrieve. When this is invariably done to your satisfaction, you can take out your gun, and fire a shot at the celestial vault at the moment that the harmless, necessary pigeon is precipitated into the atmosphere by your trusty varlet. And here let it be stated that although a gun-shy Retriever of the best blood is a great rarity, it sometimes happens that a puppy that has been shouted at, and harried at his walk until his nerves are completely unstrung, when he hears for the first time the unexpected report of a gun within a few yards of his head, will turn tail and make such tracks that you cannot see him for dust. This terror may eternally haunt him, and render him useless for the purpose for which he is required. To obviate such a calamity, it is an excellent plan to announce the kennel dinner-hour by the discharge of a blank cartridge, with the same signal for the bi-diurnal exercise time. If this plan is adopted, it is any reasonable odds that your youngster will stand fire when first he hears it in connection with his education. In an incredibly short space of time he associates the sound with sport and his congenial duties. Then the difficulty is, not to prevent him from bolting, but to check his eagerness to run in and secure the victim. At every shot that is fired he should be made to drop, and if he will not do so voluntarily, he must be pushed or thrown down gently.