Having obtained his hounds, the Master will then require to kennel them. The most expensive kennels are not always the best, and some of the most primitive have kept Beagles in comfort and free from disease. The writer likes his kennels to be traps to catch sunbeams, providing some temporary shade in a hot summer; but he knows a very experienced Beagle owner and breeder who prefers having each small kennel yard surrounded entirely by a high wall of brick or iron. In any case, Beagle kennels should be kept perfectly clean, dry, sweet, and warm; there should be good ventilation with freedom from draught. Sometimes visit your kennels at night after they have been shut up for a few hours, and ascertain how they feel. Never put hounds away wet or dirty; either rub them dry or turn them into a loose box a foot deep in straw to dry themselves. The bedding should be on a bench raised from the ground; straw constantly changed makes the best. Concrete is probably the most satisfactory flooring, but there should always be a fall to run off the moisture into an outside drain. It is a great advantage to have summer kennels with extensive grass runs; this gives a change of ground, and, if space is no object, they can be easily and cheaply erected for summer use, as the runs can be enclosed by wire netting 6ft. high, and converted wooden poultry houses make very good sleeping-boxes. It must, however, be remembered that if hounds are kept too long on grass it is apt to make their feet spread, and in wet weather a grass run is undesirable; so that it can only be recommended for a change during the hot months. Hound-kennels are usually built of brick; but there is some advantage in having good wooden buildings: they are cheap, last for several years if seasoned wood is used, and can then be broken up or used for poultry-houses, being replaced by ,an entirely fresh building. If possible, arrange for a window on the east or south side to admit the sun. By far the best roofing is a thick thatch of rye or wheat straw with overhanging eaves on the south side, under which there may be a bench on which hounds can sit in the sun; such a roof is cool in summer and warm in winter.

Unless it is intended to board the puppies out - find walks for them, as it is called - the Master must have ready a separate kennel and as extensive a run as possible for his unentered hounds, and all puppies require as much liberty as circumstances allow, a little daily exercise being quite insufficient. A small isolation hospital at some little distance from the kennels must also be provided; this can be as elaborate or as simple as the Master pleases, but it must be warm and easily disinfected. Then there should also be a small separate kennel for the reception of strange hounds and for isolating those returned from strange kennels or a show, until one is assured that they are free from disease. Use every effort and take every precaution to prevent disease from getting into your pack, for once it obtains a footing the loss and trouble are often beyond calculation, and many a breeder has seen the work and pleasure of years swept away in a month - a depressing and disheartening experience indeed.

Having housed his Beagles, the Master will need to feed them. If the pack is in regular hard work, there is nothing to equal horseflesh; but otherwise it will be found too heating, and of course many Beagle packs would take too long getting through a horse. Whatever food is given, it is best to allow one full meal in the evening, and the smaller variety or delicate feeders will be all the better for a good piece of bread or biscuit in the morning from the Master's hand when making his inspection, which should be daily as a matter of course. Such numbers of "foods" are now made and advertised that every Master has an easy opportunity of trying for himself which suits his pack and pocket the best; but the results should be carefully watched. A change of food is often desirable, and the writer keeps three different "makes" of food going at the same time.

When there is little or no work to be done, "wholemeal" bread and oatmeal biscuits from a reliable maker will be found excellent, healthy and staple foods at all times for a change. Feeding is an important part of kennel management, and should be attended to with the greatest care, greedy feeders being checked and shy hounds encouraged and favoured : it will often be found necessary to draw some hounds and feed separately. The smallest Beagles generally do best kept in rather high condition - of course not pig fat, as sometimes seen. Try and exercise Beagles every day, if only for a few minutes - it helps greatly to keep them in health.

When at work, remember Beagles are not Foxhounds. They will not stand much rating and very little whip-cord - the less the better; but the necessity arises sometimes, of course. Leave them alone as much as possible; interference seldom helps a Beagle. Let them trust to their noses and puzzle out a solution of the problem for themselves - that is true Beagle work. If you take no pleasure in watching ten or twelve couples of highly bred beauties working out the intricacies caused by the cunning of puss, but feel in a desperate hurry to drive on and catch your hare, then for goodness' sake leave Beagles alone and patronise small Harriers; with these you will be able to cut in here and there, your "field" will run "to the Harriers" instead of "with the Beagles," and the number of your "kills " may be enormously increased.

Of course, in all hunting the " kill" is the climax, the final victory of the hounds over the quarry, and as such to be desired; but the true Beagler infinitely prefers a long run over a variety of ground, with all the vicissitudes of hope and fear culminating in the last wild excitement of bursting from scent to view of a failing hare just as dusk begins to replace the daylight; and we are all well content to make tracks for home when the last, even if also the first, triumphant "whoo-whoop" has died away upon the evening air.