It will be noticed that the Borzoi Club list of points give the height of dogs as from "28m. upwards." At the present day dogs of 28in. would hardly be looked at by the majority of our judges; indeed, few of our best bitches are less than 29m. to 29½ in. at shoulder. Mere height is not everything, and breeders nowadays, it is feared, are sacrificing many other points to obtain height, and great height is only too often accompanied by coarseness. In the case of Champion Caspian (whose death last year was certainly a loss to the breed) this was not the case - he combined quality with quantity. What was a record price for a dog of this breed - viz. ₤ 700 - was offered for Caspian.

Another fault which is unfortunately gaining ground is light eyes. These are not mentioned among the Club's list of faults, but they certainly are a fault, and a bad one. One of the Borzoi's greatest charms is his expression - and a light-eyed Borzoi cannot have this desired expression to any great degree!

The predominating colour is white, with or without fawn, lemon, grey, brindle, blue, or black markings, too much of the last colour being considered a detriment. There are also self-, or whole-coloured dogs; but these, unless especially good in other points, generally find themselves handicapped in the show-ring. There are, of course, exceptions, Champion Velasquez, for instance, being a handsome whole-coloured brindle.

To the intending purchaser, if a novice, the following hints on purchasing may be helpful. Do not be satisfied with particulars of measurements sent to you in writing; one person may, according to his own ideas, make a dog's head from one to two inches longer than it actually is, and three inches difference between the actual and reputed height at shoulder is no uncommon thing. The writer has often had particulars sent of measurements that put the dimensions of the champion dogs of the day to shame; but when the dog itself arrived, there was always a difficulty in getting the measurements to agree with those of the vendor. If you have no friend who understands the breed, place yourself in the hands of a breeder of repute, pay a fair price, and you will get fair value.

In selecting a puppy, choose the one with the longest head, biggest bone, smallest ears, and longest tail. If you can get all these qualities combined, so much the better. As regards coat, it is preferable to be guided by those of the parents, if possible; a puppy may carry a splendid coat, but after casting this, may never grow a good one. Some dogs never grow a long coat, containing, as they do, much of the blood of the wavy and less profuse coated strain.

The colour will not be found to vary much in the puppy and adult dog. Some brindle or mouse-coloured markings change to fawn when the puppy coat is cast; but in this case the hair is generally of the shade it will ultimately attain at the roots. A healthy puppy at three months should measure from 19 in. to 21 in. at shoulder, at six months about 25m., and at nine months from 27m. to 29m., and should continue to grow up to fifteen or eighteen months old. The above is only intended as a rough guide, and may be exceeded. On the contrary, from many causes - distemper, worms, inattention, etc. - such measurements may never be attained. Generally speaking, a Borzoi is in his prime when three years of age, as he continues to deepen in chest and otherwise fill out until then. On the other hand, some get coarse in head after their second or third year.

As regards price, a puppy, say eight weeks old, should be had for ₤5 to £ 10. It is unwise to give more, as it is almost impossible to say with any degree of certainty how so young a pup will turn out, and to pay less is to probably buy a "weed."

One of the best methods in starting a kennel in this as in other breeds is to purchase a good bitch, a winner for preference, and mate her to the best dog whose pedigree is suitable. Do not think to breed good stock from a third-rate bitch - the dam is quite as important a factor as the sire, perhaps more so. Again, do not seek to save a sovereign or so in the stud fee. Like produces like, with certain modifications, therefore do not try to breed champions from a second-rate stud dog, however low the fee.

Having decided on the stud dog, it is always a wise precaution to dose a bitch thoroughly for worms, before having her served. If possible, accompany the bitch and see her properly mated. After her return she will require nothing but a little extra grooming, and if in whelp will probably exhibit an increased appetite, which must of course be satisfied. No jumping or violent exercise should be permitted during the last fortnight, but steady exercise only. Borzois as a rule make excellent mothers, and, if healthy, seldom have any difficulty in whelping. The bitch's food for the first few days after the birth of the pups should be sloppy but nutritious.

Unfortunately, Borzoi pups are not the easiest of dogs to rear. They require plenty of room for exercise, and are liable to suffer badly should they contract distemper. Apart from these drawbacks they require no different treatment from other large breeds. Feed little and often : use oatmeal, rice, well-boiled meat, and butchers' offal, with good hound meal as the staple food, and as much new milk as they will drink.

Few breeds require less "preparation" for the show-bench (except the legitimate bath) than the Borzoi, and the "novice" shows on equal terms with the "old hand." For washing, nothing is better than rain water, if procurable, as it tends to soften the coat. If a little liquid ammonia be added, it will greatly assist in removing any dirt or grease. A good brushing and combing after the bath is all that is necessary. A Borzoi should not be shown in too fat a condition, or the symmetry of outline, one of the chief beauties of the breed, is lost. Some exhibitors go so far as not to feed their dogs before leading them into the ring.

The general management of the adult dog may be summed up in a few words : Regular food - say dry biscuits in the morning and a good feed at night time - plenty of exercise, and grooming, for which purpose an ordinary dandy-brush is perhaps the best. To keep the coat in perfection, the dog should be brushed every day, and the feathering and tail carefully combed out. If this is done, washing will seldom be required, except before shows - a consideration where a number are kept. A Borzoi should never be kept "on chain"; if the dog cannot be allowed entire liberty, or at least a kennel with a run, the prospective owner had better confine his attentions to a smaller breed.

The interest of the breed is well looked after by the Borzoi Club, who support all the leading shows by offering their challenge cups, medals, cash specials, as well as by guaranteeing classes. Club shows are also held. The first of these took place at Southport. In 1899 and 1900 specialist shows were held at Ranelagh, and at these collections of animals were brought together that in Russia itself could hardly have been excelled. As before stated, the Club is presided over by her Grace the Duchess of Newcastle, with the Duke as joint-President, ably backed up by a committee of twelve ladies and gentlemen elected annually from among the members. The Club is represented on the Kennel Club Council of delegates by Mr. W. Blatspiel-Stamp. The Hon. Secretary and Hon. Treasurer are Mr. Hood Wright, Frome, Somerset, and Captain Borman, Billericay, Essex, respectively, either of whom will always be pleased to give any information to those desirous of becoming members.

Appended is a description of the breed as defined and adopted by the Borzoi Club: -

Head

Long and lean. The skull flat and narrow ; stop not perceptible, and muzzle long and tapering. The head from the forehead to the tip of the nose should be so fine that the shape and direction of the bones and principal veins can be seen clearly, and in profile should appear rather Roman-nosed. Bitches should be even narrower in head than dogs. Eyes dark, expressive, almond-shaped, and not too far apart. Ears, like those of a Greyhound, small, thin, and placed well back on the head, with the tips, when thrown back, almost touching behind the occiput.

Neck

The head should be carried somewhat low, with the neck continuing the line of the back.

Shoulders

Clean and sloping well back.

Chest

Deep and somewhat narrow.

Back

Rather bony and free from any cavity in the spinal column, the arch in the back being more marked in the dog than in the bitch.

Loins

Broad and very powerful, with plenty of muscular development.

Thighs

Long and well developed, with good second thigh.

Ribs

Slightly sprung at the angle; deep, reaching to the elbow, and even lower.

Fore Legs

Lean and straight. Seen from the front they should be narrow, and from the side, broad at the shoulders and narrowing gradually down to the foot, the bone appearing flat, and not round as in the Foxhound.

Hind Legs

The least thing under the body when standing still, not straight, and the stifle slightly bent.

Muscles

Well distributed and highly developed.

Pasterns

Strong.

Feet

Like those of the Deerhound, rather long. The toes close together and well arched.

Coat

Long, silky (not woolly), either flat, wavy, or rather curly. On the head, ears, and front legs it should be short and smooth. On the neck the frill should be profuse and rather curly. On the chest and rest of body, the tail, and hindquarters, it should be long. The fore legs should be well feathered.

Tail

Long, well feathered, and not gaily carried.

Height

At shoulder of dogs, from 28in. upwards; of bitches, from 26in. upwards.

Faults

Head short or thick. Too much stop. Parti-coloured nose. Eyes too wide apart. Heavy ears. Heavy shoulders. Wide chest. "Barrel " ribbed. Dew claws. Elbows turned out, wide behind.