As a guide to the novice, Fig. 85 is given. It shows all the head points that a good Bulldog cannot possess. One ear is shown of the bat shape, the other buttoned; the nose is too long (or down-faced), and the under-jaw weak and receding (froggy). The eyes show too much of the white, and the face is tight-skinned and without wrinkle.

No dog is more deceptive than the Bulldog. His strong, muscular, heavy-boned frame and sturdy appearance suggest a dog of almost unlimited powers of endurance, and it is hard to realise that he is one of the most delicate of all the canine creation. His poor constitution is entirely due to the inbreeding that has been practised for generations. The purpose of this has been to secure and perpetuate certain desirable points, otherwise impossible to establish permanently. And the points have been secured, but at the cost of a delicate and degenerate constitution.

There was nothing delicate about the old-fashioned fighting dog no one cared for his points so long as he was courageous and full of fire and go. In those days the breeder's object was to mate a fighting dog to a fighting bitch, and the result was a progeny remarkable for toughness and hardiness. But nowadays the Bulldog must be almost as carefully guarded and protected from the weather as the most delicate and pampered Toy. The tub and wisp of straw is no home for him ; a Terrier can live and thrive and bring up families in such a home, but not so the Bulldog. His house must be carefully planned, well made, of stout material able to resist the weather; he must never be exposed to the dangers arising from damp and insanitary conditions. He must have air without draughts, and sunshine without heat, for heat is his worst enemy, and more fatal to him even than cold and wet.

Fig. 85. - Head of Bulldog, showing Undesirable Points.

Many kennels have been designed and placed on the market, and the man whose purse will allow him cannot do better than write to one or other of the many kennel appliance manufacturers for a price-list, and make his purchase, secure in the knowledge that he is buying the best thing possible and getting good value for his money. But there are many who are compelled to seek some cheaper substitute, and there is no reason why a thoroughly practical and useful kennel of fair dimensions should not be made for a little more than a sovereign by a man capable of the simpler branches of carpentry. Despite all that has been said against it, a wood flooring is infinitely preferable to one of concrete, provided the wooden floors are easily removable for cleansing.

Fig. 86 shows the front and end elevation of the kennel and run, Fig. 87 the ground-plan, and Fig. 88 gives a view of the interior of the kennel. It will be seen that the kennel consists of two distinct compartments - an inner one, in which the bed is placed, and an outer one, open at the front, for use as a run. A small trapdoor with a sliding panel allows the dog to pass from the inner to the outer run. His bed, placed at the back of the kennel, is well out of the reach of draughts, and the window in the door must be sufficiently large to lighten the inner compartment thoroughly in the day-time. The floors are made of ½in. planed boards, neatly joined, and with no crevices for dirt to accumulate in. The floor of the outer run is made in three pieces, each 2ft. wide by 4ft. long, the floor of the inner compartment in two pieces, each 15in. wide by 4ft long. When in position the ends rest upon the lower framing of the kennel, and as the sections are not large they can be easily lifted and carried out through the doorways. The floors need not be removed for cleaning purposes more than once a fortnight if they are kept covered with a liberal sprinkling of sawdust, which must be swept out every day and fresh thrown down. The sleeping-place is constructed by simply sliding a 6in. wide board, across the inner compartment, 18in. from the back of the kennel, as shown in Fig. 88, and in the space thus formed clean, dry straw is placed.

Fig. 86. - Front and End Elevation of Bulldog Kennel.

All the inner walls should be limewashed periodically, and if a good handful of salt is added to the bucket of limewash, it will prevent it from flaking, or rubbing off on the clothes and hands. The same salted limewash is capable of withstanding the weather for a considerable time, and if the roof of the kennel is treated with it during the hot summer months, the white surface will reflect the hot sunrays, and the kennel will be kept at a far lower temperature than if the roof were coloured or dark.

Fig. 87. - Ground Plan of Bulldog Kennel.

Fig. 88. - View of Interior of Bulldog Kennel.

The ground on which the kennel stands should be prepared by making a surface of cinders, brick-ballast, coke-breeze, or some similar and suitable material, which must be well rammed or rolled down to make a hard, level surface. Aspect is a very important consideration. Let the kennel stand facing the south, south-west, or west, not to the north or east, if the dog's life is valued.

Should an amateur carpenter attempt to make the kennel described, he may possibly experience some difficulty in obtaining the iron railing for the front of the run. If this be the case, stout galvanised wire netting (sheep netting) may be substituted, but it must be carefully put on, with its edges sandwiched between a batten of wood and the frame of the kennel, and it must be the very stoutest gauge procurable, or it will not last long.