The Irish Terrier is much too long in the legs, and not in any way suitable for going to earth for fox or badger; such sport must be left to smaller breeds - the Fox-terrier, Dandie, and others. But above ground, no matter what the vermin, he can and will give a good account of himself - that is, so far as drawing a badger from a tub is concerned. A better test to try a Terrier's pluck is to turn upside-down a large wooden trough about 10 ft. long. long and having one end knocked out. Let the badger go to the far end, and if you have a Terrier that will fetch him out, no matter to what breed he belongs, you have a gem of the first water. The writer knew a Bull-terrier bitch that would do this; but after having one of her legs broken from the bite of a badger, she went more cautiously to work, and it looked comical to see her tuck her front legs under her body when going to one to avoid punishment.

When a person talks of a Terrier killing a badger, you may be sure that he is talking without knowledge - it's all moonshine. The writer has seen a good deal of badgers, and been to many a badger dig in the Tidworth country with the late Assheton Smith and Lord Broughton's keepers. Jack Fricker the Huntsman, and Billy Brice, First Whip, always put in an appearance, and brought some of the very gamest Fox-terriers that could be found - dogs that would go to earth and stay there till dug out hours after. A captured badger turned down in the open would easily run away with three of these Terriers hanging to him. The punishment that a badger can inflict on a dog when in his natural earth is truly terrible, and the Terrier that can kill one in such has yet to be evolved.

Mr. Erwin, speaking of Irish Terriers, says they have the peculiarity of often appearing shy and timid, but their true nature soon flashes out on occasion. Some of the pluckiest I have owned had this peculiarity - Tanner, Sporter, Banshee, Belle, etc. This is certainly characteristic of the breed, and one not infrequently hears from those not thoroughly acquainted with it the remark, Are they shy? As a breed the Irish Terrier is not shy - he is naturally reticent, and to demonstrate this just show one a rat in a cage, and you will see him immediately stiffen, his tail assume a perpendicular position, his eyes flash, and woe-betide the rodent when he emerges from captivity. No, there is nothing shy about the Irish Terrier; only warm his blood to the proper temperature, and fear or timidity is absolutely unknown to him.

Those who have had years of experience with this breed need no teaching, but a few hints on breeding, general management, etc., may be of use to the less initiated. Irish Terriers are so hardy in constitution that no special care is required in breeding, such as one would have to give to Yorkshire Terriers, Black-and-tans, Toy Spaniels, and other tender varieties. Good quarters, plenty of outdoor exercise, and a good wholesome diet of cooked food are the principal requirements to ensure getting healthy stock.

The modus operandi of a novice is too frequently to purchase from some unscrupulous person a snipy-faced, weedy little bitch, or a big, ungainly, flaxen-coated specimen of very doubtful blood, that bears no affinity to an Irish Terrier, except perhaps in colour, and then plank down his money for the service of a stud dog of totally different outline and character, in the full expectation that the mating will strike the happy medium in the size and quality of the progeny, simply because the sire is a good dog. This is diametrically opposed to the laws of practical breeding, and only brings sad disappointment to the experimenter, wastes his time and money, and stocks the country with mongrels that should never see the light of day.

Beginners in the Fancy would act much more wisely by going to a breeder of repute, and purchase of him a bitch of pure blood, for as the old axiom says, "Blood will tell." This need not be an expensive deal, for most breeders occasionally have surplus stock of this sex that they are glad to dispose of at a moderate price, when not quite good enough for the show-bench. Next a stud dog should be selected that excels and whose ancestors have excelled in the qualities in which the bitch is deficient, and if the advice of a practical man can be obtained to assist in the selection, so much the better. March is the best month in the year to breed puppies, so that they can have at least six months to grow before the cold weather sets in. Of course they may be bred at other times, but autumn-bred puppies seldom do so well as those bred in the spring. Care should be taken in the early stage of gestation to see that the bitch is thoroughly clear of internal parasites; if this is not done, in all probability they will be transmitted to the young, and a big risk is run of losing the lot. Without doubt parasites in puppies kill at least three times as many as distemper, or any other malady, and experience teaches that it is the chief thing to fear in breeding almost any kind of dog. It cannot therefore be too strongly pointed out that it is absolutely necessary to take Time by the forelock in this respect.

A suitable place should be selected for the bitch a fortnight prior to the eventful day, so that she may thoroughly settle down. It should be a place that is moderately warm and free from damp or draught, and a bed of soft oat straw should be provided. Her diet prior to whelping should consist of a liberal allowance of cooked food such as oatmeal, vegetables, and biscuits soaked in the liquor from boiled sheeps' heads, etc., twice daily, the biggest meal to be given at night.

For two or three days after the birth of the pups the bitch should have soft warm food and a small midday meal. A day or two later this may be supplemented with some finely chopped meat until the puppies are weaned. A little fresh raw meat is beneficial for a bitch that has a nest of hungry youngsters almost continually sucking her, and, for choice, grass-fed sheeps' paunches unwashed, finely cut up. It is easy to digest, and the undigested portions of herbage it contains (of which dogs are very fond) cools the blood and acts as a mild aperient. The puppies should be docked when a week old, and they should be allowed to remain with the dam until they are at least six or seven weeks old, when the bitch usually tires of them somewhat, and they will be best separated, and the puppies put into a kennel by themselves, or else sent out to "walk."