This section is from the book "British Dogs, Their Points, Selection, And Show Preparation", by W. D. Drury. Also available from Amazon: British Dogs: Their Points, Selection And Show Preparation.
The points of the Retriever have been carefully described by many expert writers, and an elaborate scale has been drawn up for the guidance of both the novice and the would-be judge; but, as has already been pointed out, the crying evil of the day is that the due proportions or value of these points are generally ignored, and the verdict is often arrived at in view of the preponderating excellence of some single point; or a dog is completely discomfited on account of some failing, which, were the scale adhered to, would only penalise him three or four notches. The writer's own version of what an ideal Flat-coated Retriever should be, and also a new scale of points, are here set forth.
Taking a mature dog of the largest size advisable - i.e. about 24m. at the shoulder - the head measurement should be approximately as follows: -
The head should be long and powerful. When held between the hands, and looked down upon it should present the appearance of a perfect wedge or V with the apex cut off. The skull should be flat and moderately broad. A skull as narrow as the muzzle in front of the eyes is a very bad fault; so also is any domed appearance, or the conical formation of the occiput, as seen in the Setter. The sides of the head should be quite flush ; any thickness or protruding of the cheek-bones is highly detrimental. The muzzle should be long and strong; not tapering, but clean at its extremity, and free from "lippiness." The jaws must be quite level and the teeth strong and white, the nose broad, and the nostrils free and open.
From occiput to interior corner of eye | 7in. |
From interior corner of eye to tip of nose | 4 " |
Across skull, from set-on of one ear to the set-on of the other .. | 7 " |
Total length of head, from occiput to tip of nose | 11 " |
It will thus be seen that the breadth of skull should equal its length.
The Ear should be V-shaped, but rounded at the extremity. It should be set on the side of the head, about 4m. from the exterior corner of the eye, which measurement equals the length of muzzle. The "set-on" must not be on a level with the base of the skull or occiput, neither must it be low, as seen in the Spaniel. When extended, the tip of the ear should just reach the exterior corner of the eye. Most dogs of the day have a tendency to larger ears, and a slight prolongation beyond the eye is not very prejudicial; but an unduly large ear is detrimental to general quality. In nearly all the Retrievers of the day it will be found that the ear is covered at the base with long strands of hair, which do not add to its beauty, and consequently it is the practice to remove these blemishes. According to the Kennel Club Rules, plucking out the old or dead hair with finger and thumb, is the only legitimate practice ; but the writer will defy any one to trim a Flat-coated Retriever's ear in this way. How, then, is it done?
About the Eye of the Retriever there is not a consensus of opinion. Some hold that it cannot be too dark or too small. Personally, the writer is at issue with both these dictums, and if he be Sir Oracle, he hereby declares that the eye should be dark brown, and that a sloe-black eye is almost as objectionable as a yellow one. He also opines that a small, deep-set eye is altogether un-Retriever like. It should be of moderate size, neither deep-set nor pedunculated; it should, in expression, beam with intelligence and benevolence. The lips should be tight, and the flews well braced up.
The head should be well set on to a strong, muscular neck of good length, round, and showing graceful, curving lines to the shoulder, which should be long, sloping, and flush with the ribs. The points of the shoulder-blades should lie close together at the juncture of the neck. The surest way of detecting bad shoulders is to find these two points set wide apart.
These properties are of the utmost importance, for it is on his "understandings" that a Retriever has to do the most arduous portion of his work. A writer in one of the "doggy" papers once sagely asked, "If a Retriever is good in his work, what does it matter if his legs are crooked, as long as they carry him? "Yes, my friend, all very well for that particular dog; but go on breeding from such, and you will find, in the course of time, that with crooked legs will be evolved bad shoulders, weak backs, and wasted loins. No ; a Retriever's legs must be as straight as a Foxhound's, with sufficient bone carried right down to the feet. " Sufficient" bone is written advisedly, because the craze for very heavy bone, alike as regards Retrievers and Hounds, often results in general coarseness. The bone of a highly bred dog of great quality often appears lighter than that of a coarser animal; but if, after death, the two are examined, the coarse bone will be found porous and soft, whilst that of the "quality" dog partakes of the nature of ivory, and reproduced in his progeny would be capable of twice the wear and tear of the other. The feet should be moderately large and round, the toes well arched and closely knit. The soles or pads should be very hard, dense, and impervious to cuts and blisters.
The chest should not be too wide, but should be very deep, with plenty of heart-room. The ribs should be only slightly sprung behind the shoulder, where they should be quite flat, so that the elbow, in action, works like the cock of a gun. A round or barrel rib, despite what may be said, is a distinct detriment. Many dogs have been decried as flat-sided whose conformation was, in reality, all that could be desired. A very deep-chested dog cannot be barrel-ribbed, and a deep chest is far more desirable than a shallow, round one. You never find a real stayer in man, horse, or dog that is not deep-chested and more or less flat-sided. Again, a great deal is made of a dog being "coupled right up" ; and "too long in the couplings" is a parrot cry that has kept many a good animal out of the first flight. A dog who is really too long cast, and is, in consequence, lanky and weak, is most certainly not to be encouraged ; it will often be that a very deep-chested dog appears too long from the back rib to the stifle : but if the tape be used, and it is found that the height at the shoulder equals the length from point of shoulder to set-on of stern, then it is clear that the lines of symmetry are right, and that the super-excellence of chest and shoulders require scope in the couplings. A dog with a very deep chest and long, oblique shoulders would, if his couplings were too well ribbed up, lack liberty - a fault all too common in certain strains. The bark should be broad and strong from end to end, showing a most graceful outline when viewed in connection with head, neck, and stern. Many Retrievers exhibit a weakness or "wedginess" behind the saddle, and this fault becomes particularly obvious directly they begin to lack condition from overwork, over-showing, or general delicacy of constitution. This is one of the hereditary blots on the Darenth escutcheon, and is to be observed in his son Champion Horton Rector and his grandson Champion Black Quilt. The loins of the Retriever should be broad, strong, muscular, and gently arched.
 
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