"In adopting the principle of distributing 100 marks amongst the several points of the bulldog, the Bulldog Club has followed the example of the old National Dog Club, with whose valuation of the separate points of the bulldog (as given in Stonenenge's 'Dogs of the British Isles') the present scale is almost identical.

" The opinions of all (whether members or not) were solicited and received, and the steps to define and obtain the establishment of a recognised standard for the breed have been carefully and impartially taken".

This scale is given here' in extenso, out of consideration for the high authority from which it emanates; but I cannot help thinking that the skull, which is the essential point of the breed, has been sacrificed in favour of another, which can far more readily be obtained, and is of comparatively little importance.

If the dog is to be regarded as useful in himself for any purpose whatever demanding symmetry, by all means value that point accordingly; but as I do not so regard him for the reasons above given, and as I consider his courage, which depends for its development on that of his brain, as the peculiar attribute of the breed, I must confess that I do not accept this alteration without protest, and I therefore put forth the following scale, in which I have added five points for skull, leaving it still lower than the old estimate:

Proposed Scale Of Points

Grand Total 100.

1. Skull (Value 20)

1. Skull (value 20) should be as large as possible, square in all directions, and the skin covering it well wrinkled. The distance between the eye and ear passage should be considerable.

2. The Stop (Value 5)

2. The stop (value 5), or indentation between the eyes, should be well developed in depth as well as width, and should extend up the skull, or be "well broken up the face," as this is called in canine phraseology. This term is an appropriate one, the conformation giving the animal possessing it an appearance as if his skull was split in two beneath the skin at this part.

3. The Eyes (Value 6)

3. The eyes (value 6) should be dark and large, but not too full ("goggle "). Their setting should be straight across, not oblique or fox-like, and should be wide apart.

4. The Ears (Value 5)

4. The ears (value 5) should be small and fine. Three shapes are known, under the names "rose," "button," and "tulip." In the "rose" ear, which is considered by far the best, the tip laps over outwards, showing part of the inside. The "button" shows scarcely anything of the inside, from the tip falling forwards, while the "tulip" stands erect like that of the fox. Many dogs are in the habit of cocking up their rose or button ears into the shape of the tulip when excited; but this, though objectionable, and sufficient to make a good judge take off a proportionate amount from the allotted value of this point, should not make him estimate them as if they were absolute tulips. In all cases the ears should be set on at the edges of the upper surface of the skull, and not on its top, which gives an unnaturally narrow appearance to the head.

5. Face, Upper Jaw, And Nostrils (Value 5)

In the upper jaw there should be no falling away under the eyes, the cheek-bones being prominent, showing a good girth from depth as well as breadth. The nasal bones and cartilages must be very short, so that the end of the nose lies sloping back considerably behind the level of the teeth, reducing the distance between it and the eyes to a minimum. The " shortness of face," as it is called, is considered of great importance, for the reason given in the introductory remarks. The nose itself should be broad, damp, and black, with the nostrils wide open, haying a cleft between them. A light-coloured ("Dudley") or a parti-coloured ("butterfly") nose is especially objected to. •

6. The Chop (Value 5)

6. The chop (value 5) or lips should completely cover the teeth, the more the better.

7. The Mouth And Lower Jaw (Value 5)

7. The mouth and lower jaw (value 5) must be wide and square. The lower jaw should be well turned up, and project beyond the upper. The canine teeth (tusks) should be strong and set wide apart, and the incisors in an even row and of regular size.

8. The Neck (Value 5)

8. The neck (value 5) should be moderately long, but arched and very muscular, and should be clothed with a quantity of loose skin hanging down in the form of a double dewlap.

9. Shoulders And Chest (Value 10)

The shoulder-blades should be long, and strongly covered with muscle. The chest must be very wide and deep, giving a great girth, the thickness of brisket being specially to be noted as different from that of all other dogs in reference to the width between the elbows. • •

10. The Back (Value 5) Must Be Short, And Arched At The Loin ("Roached ")

10. The back (value 5) must be short, and arched at the loin ("roached "), showing a great width of the dorsal muscles running up in a hollow between the shoulder blades, which, combined with the arched loin, should make the dog look lower before than behind. There is rather a "tucked-up" appearance at the loins, from the shortness of the back ribs as compared with those in front, a " cobby " shape being undesirable.

11. The Tail (Value 5)

11. The tail (value 5) or stern should be set on low. It should be very fine, and by no means long. A twist is considered desirable rather than otherwise, and many go so far as to admire what is called a " screw." It must not be carried over the back, and a hooked end is a bad fault.

12. Fore Legs And Feet (Value 5)

The legs should be short, straight, and well clothed at the arms - or "calves" as they are called - with muscle. This, being chiefly on the outside, often gives the bulldog's forelegs an appearance as if crooked, which they ought not really to be, and really are not in a well-made dog. The elbows should be set on to the true arm wide apart, the arm itself sloping out from the shoulder joint. The ankles, or pasterns, must be as nearly upright and straight as possible, showing plenty of bone; but very few even of the best dogs quite come up in this point, and it must not, therefore, be much insisted on. The feet should have the toes well split up and arched, but most of the best dogs exhibit rather a wide or "splayed" formation of the feet.