This section is from the book "British Dogs At Work", by A. Croxton Smith. Also available from Amazon: British Dogs at Work.
As distemper is the commonest and most fatal disease from which dogs suffer, it will be as well to deal with that first, although it is not within the province of a layman to treat the subject exhaustively. This is the work of the trained hand, and, if you value your puppy, I should strongly advise calling in skilled advice, at any rate until long experience has given you a considerable knowledge of this complicated and dangerous complaint. There is no such thing as a "distemper age," of which some people are so fond of talking. A puppy may contract it at six weeks, or he may escape until he is eighteen months. While some never take it at all, it is a rare thing for a dog that is shown to escape. It is a contagious disease, which cannot be contracted spontaneously, and it is particularly puzzling in its early stages, as a dog may be ailing for some time without displaying any clearly defined symptoms beyond general lassitude and a slightly elevated temperature. A puppy is less immune in damp muggy weather. The period of incubation after contact with the virus is from four to fifteen days, and then only slight symptoms may be observable. It is well to distrust the majority of so-called cures, for the disease assumes so many forms that it is quite obvious that the same specific cannot be efficacious in each case. Loss of appetite, a dry nose, and a disinclination to exercise are among the early danger-signals, which may be followed with sickness, diarrhoea, and a hollow cough. If pursuing a normal course, a discharge from nose and eyes will appear, first thin and irritating, and then thick enough to clog the nostrils. The dog's efforts to clear the nasal passages have given rise to the term "snifters." The temperature, which should be taken thrice daily and registered on a chart, may show a considerable elevation, as much as 106° or more by no means being uncommon. The first thing to do is to put the patient into a warm, well-ventilated room, which can be kept at an equable temperature. This is absolutely essential if you would pull the sufferer through. Next put on him a warm coat, with gamgee wool underneath, so as to afford ample protection to the chest. The best plan for making a jacket is to take a piece of blanket of sufficient size, cut two holes about six inches apart, put the front legs through these, and then sew up with a packing-needle along the back and under the throat. The ordinary form of coat is practically useless, as the most important organs are left exposed. The nose and eyes must be constantly freed from the discharge by means of tepid water and some mild disinfectant, and the sick-room must be kept well ventilated and scrupulously clean. Wash the gums frequently with Condy's fluid. The breathing is assisted if the air is moistened with sanitas or Friar's balsam in boiling water. A little eucalyptus is also helpful, applied to the nose. A simple febrifuge may be made up of thirty-six grains each of salicylate of soda and salicine, dissolved in three ounces of water, and given three times a day, a teaspoonful to a small dog and a tablespoon-ful in the case of one of the larger breeds. If this does not reduce the temperature, give three times in one day, this dose being for a big dog: 10 grains salicylate of soda, 5 grains phenacetin, and 5 grains sulphate of quinine. Repeat in three or four days.
It is important that the bowels should act freely, and, in the case of a troublesome cough and much phlegm, an emetic may be given with advantage, such as fifteen to twenty grains of sulphate of zinc and a tea-spoonful of wine of ipecacuanha. The eyes need watching to prevent ulceration, and boracic acid ointment may be applied to the lids, while your chemist would make you up an eye lotion, of which Goulard's extract of lead should be the chief ingredient.
The strictest attention must be paid to the diet, for, after all, good nursing is the most important factor contributing to recovery. You will quite understand that with a temperature liquid foods of a highly-nourishing nature are necessary, although it does occasionally happen that a little finely-chopped or scraped lean beef or mutton may be helpful. However, you must rely principally upon beef-tea, raw egg, egg-and-milk, plain milk, Benger's food, bovril, etc. A tea-spoonful of plasmon may be added to any of these with advantage. Bear in mind that this is a terribly weakening disease, and that the strength of the patient must be maintained at all costs. Therefore he should be fed hourly, with only a few ounces at a time, lest the stomach be over-taxed. If the attack is a severe one it is almost certain that the dog will have to be drenched, and this need not be a formidable affair if you have tact and a kindly manner. It must be so done as to cause the least possible distress. I prefer to use a bottle without much shoulder. Face the patient, and, without any fuss or harshness, hold the lips on one side with your left hand, and insert the bottle on the other side, making a pouch of the lips with your right hand. You will find it desirable to thicken the liquid slightly with arrow-root or corn-flour, as, if given thin, it is apt to cause a good deal of coughing, which may end in vomiting. If the dog is seriously ill, feeding hourly night and day is necessary. Alcohol in the early stages is not indicated, but if there is great weakness, resort to brandy pretty frequently, and port wine is not to be despised. If diarrhoea and sickness are present, from five to fifteen grains of carbonate of bismuth may be shaken dry upon the tongue three times a day, and the milk should be thickened with arrow-root. You will also find that Benger's food, being pre-digested, will be retained when others fail.
If no complications ensue, the patient should be showing signs of improvement in about a fortnight, but you must still exercise unremitting care, for I know nothing so liable to relapse as distemper. The temperature must have been normal some days before you get on to any solid food, and this must only be given in small quantities for some time. Keep the dog quiet and free from any chance of contracting a chill for a week or two after he is apparently recovered, and do not hurry about exercising him, if you would avoid chorea or paralysis.
 
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