There are several methods of shingling hips and valleys, but as most mechanics are familiar with the different methods, I will briefly describe only a few of the best and most practical ones. In shingling hips both sides should be shingled up at the same time, and on hip roofs of unequal pitch it is necessary to lay the shingles more to the weather on the long side of roof than on the short side, in order to have the courses member evenly on the hip. One method frequently employed is to cut the hip shingles so that the straight edge of the shingles will line with the center of the hip when laid, and the grain of the wood run parallel with the hip instead of straight up the roof, as in the case of common shingles. Some are inclined to think this method makes a nicer looking job than the old way of placing the sawed edge of hip shingle to the hip line. As it is customary to use tin hip shingles, I think the old way is by far the best, as the water which falls on the roof will run with the grain of the wood, and not soak into the shingles, as it would running diagonally across the grain.
The same is true in shingling valleys. Always place the valley shingles with the grain of the wood running up the roof the same as the common shingles, then the water running down the roof to the valley will run with the grain of the wood. Some trouble is experienced in shingling valleys straight. The usual custom is to put in a strip of 14-inch tin for the valley, and strike two chalk lines, leaving a space in the center of the valley 2 inches wide at the top and 3 inches at the bottom for the valley. It is a very particular job to shingle to a chalk line up a valley and shingle it straight. Then again, the line will be rubbed out before the shingling is half done. A better way is to stand a 2 x 4 up edgewise in the valley, fasten it straight with a few pieces of shingles for braces and shingle to the 2x4, which answers as a straight edge. In this way one will get a respectable looking valley, even when shingled by inexperienced hands. I have frequently seen valleys which some one had tried to shingle to a line that were at least 2 inches crooked, and between 5 and 6 inches wide in places, generally wider in the middle than at either end. Wide valleys should be avoided, as they are very liable to leak. In shingling a valley no nails should be driven through the valley tin except near the outer edge, as a nail hole will frequently cause a leak by water getting under the shingles. The best way to shingle a valley is to use single sheets of tin 10 x 14 inches, under each of the courses of shingles, leaving only about ½ inch of the tin exposed below the butts of the shingles. Make a close joint with them in the valley, and a good as well as neat looking job will be the result when the work is finished. To increase the durability of the valley, paint the tin flashings before laying.