When preparing for an outing, consider the kind of work you intend to do and select your plates accordingly.* If it is intended to make instantaneous exposures, get the most sensitive plates possible; those of the highest sensitometer number should be procured. For subjects from still life, inanimate objects, landscapes, etc., etc., slower plates are preferable. When filling your holders, carefully brush all dust from the surface of the plates, ascertain that the lenses are clean, and wrap them in chamois. Carry no useless weight.

When you have selected your standpoint, plant the legs of the tripod well apart to insure steadiness of support and make sure that the camera is level and firmly screwed to the tripod. If you use a drop shutter, slow exposures may be made by holding the slide in the hand and passing it down slowly over the opening in front of the lens. When using double holders mark the side exposed as soon as made. Carry a piece of ce-taceum paper, which may be used as a substitute in case you break your ground glass. The head cloth may be used as a changing box by covering the holder and box of plates with it and folding the ends around the wrists, securing them by rubber bands; then proceed by the sense of feeling. Before exposing draw the slides, so that no light may enter the plate holder.

Be sure you are right, then go ahead.

Before developing plates that have been exposed instantaneously, let them soak a few minutes in water with a small portion of soda or ammonia, then wash them and develop with the normal developer. Mr. Inglis suggests that for extra rapid exposures a very slow development with weak developer will give better detail and strength.

* The Stanley lightning is particularly recommended to amateurs for all quick work.

The paper films must be developed always with a strong developer to secure best results.