To make the fluted and modeled plates shown in Fig. 67, first lap the edge, then beat down the depression, and anneal as described before. Then get a piece of hard wood about 8" long, 2" wide, and 1" thick, and on the end file a flute the same shape as you wish to reproduce on the plate border, and with the end of the neck hammer that fits the flute best, beat the plate border into the wooden model; then polish and finish.
Fig. 65. Planishing' the side of the plate.
Fig. 66. Serving- tray.
Fig. 67. Fluted and modeled plates.
Fig. 68. Rectangular trays.
The rectangular trays, Figs. 68, 69, 70, and 71, are made in a little different manner from the round trays, the method being as follows: Cut out a piece of metal about 1/2" larger than the finished tray is to be; on the edge of the block of wood beat down the depression with the neck hammer; then cut the tray to the desired outline and lap over the edge; planish and finish. The reason for this difference in method between the round and rectangular trays is that the sides draw in on any square or rectangular piece of work in the same way as shown in the drawing of the lantern-top in Chapter XII (Construction, Raising, Planishing).0.
The problems described in this and the preceding chapter call for painstaking care and attention to details, and as it is not possible to make a good lantern or plate without some previous experience, the easiest and best way is to start at the beginning of the series and make at least one of each of the problems described. In that way the student will become familiar with the tools and processes. He should remember that it is always better to have one good piece of work than many poor pieces.
Fig. 71 Rectangular desk trays.
Fig. 72 Serving tray with wire handles.
"See Fig. 48, p. 97.