Perennial favorites among tossing games are those employing bean-bags. As an indoor pastime this type of game is doubly dear to adults because of the relative noiselessness of the bags when they hit the target or the floor.

An average sized bean-bag is stitched from strong cloth approximately 31/2 in. wide by 5 in. long. Turned inside out it is then filled about threequarters full with dried beans, peas, or small pebbles of uniform size; the open end is then sewed. Enough bags should be made up to allow at least three throws per player, with a couple of spares in case of accident.

Lumber List

The target for young children in Figure 5.2 not only provides three sizes of holes to throw at, but deposits the bags in the proper compartment marked with the score, thus eliminating much recrimination and "I did too's." As indicated in A, the front of the target is a sheet of hardboard (Presdwood), 21/2 ft. wide by 4 ft. long, and the back is another sheet only 11/2 in. shorter. Front and back are nailed to a boxlike frame of 3/4-in. stock which is 8 in. (73/4 in.) wide. The legs are a pair of furring strips hinged to the top of the back of the target, with a horizontal stretcher lapped across their lower ends. Two long hooks and eyes, or a pair of folding shelf or bridge-table braces hold the legs open when the target is in use.

At first glance the target pictured in Figure 5.2 appears to be a rather complicated labyrinth of wooden channels which seem somewhat too elaborate for a simple tossing game. However, a systematic approach will reduce the intricate appearing device into simple details which anyone can assemble successfully. The step by step is as follows:

Fig. 5.2. Bean-bag target.

1. Make up the rectangular frame of the target box 30 in. wide by 461/2 in. long.

2. Cut both sheets of hardboard to the indicated measurements, then accurately locate the four target openings on the smooth side of the front sheet and bore large starting holes; finish cutting out the openings with a compass saw.

3. Using the front sheet as a templet, outline the openings on the inside (smooth) face of the back sheet, then draw the outlines of the chutes indicated in detail C, Figure 5.2, and attach the back sheet of hardboard over the rear edges of the box with shingle nails.

4. Cut and "dry" fit the various chute members along the lines drawn on the back, with the target box lying flat on its back.

5. The various members of the three chutes can now be nailed together and again "dry" fitted against the back, but are not attached to the box frame. After any necessary adjustments, draw lines with a heavy crayon along the outside edges of chute members A to E inclusive, and mark the position of the supporting block under the upper end of diagonal chute (D).

6. Draw lines 3/4 in. inside the under or reverse side of the front panel. Gently remove the chute assembly from the box, turn it over and fit it against the lines drawn on the reverse side of the front panel. Outline the outside edges of chutes (A) through (E).

7. On the inside face of the back panel punch small holes 1/4 in. under the lines which were drawn along the outer edges of the chute assembly (A-E).

8. Nail blocks for lower ends of (F) and (G) to the bottom of the box, and the block for the upper end of (D) to the left side of the box.

9. Return chute assembly to the box and nail the four diagonal members (F) and (G) in position, and the upper end of (D).

10. Turn the box gently over and attach the back panel to the edges of chute members (A) through (E) with thin wire nails along lines connecting the punch marks. Turn box over again and check to see that no nails have split through the upper edge of any slide.

11. Cut and fit ramps (R) into place at the bottom ends of the three chutes. Nail the supporting blocks under the rear ends of the ramps; then nail the ramps to the blocks.

12. Smear a strong glue mixture along the lines drawn on the inside of the front panel, nail it to the edges of the box, then weight it down while the glue dries.

In detail B of Figure 5.2 the three pieces, which were cut from the rectangular chute openings shown in detail C, are hinged across their upper edges with linen strips glued across the lower edges of the openings. If preferred they can be omitted, as in C.

The paint job will be simplified if the face is to be left white, for then the entire front panel can be painted white and pencil lines drawn outlining the eyes, lips, teeth, necktie, and so forth, as guides for black and red paint applied with small water color or pencil brushes. Red paint or enamel, smeared on the back panel behind the mouth and nose openings before the front panel is attached, will add realism to the target, with fight blue behind the eye openings.

For those who prefer a simpler target, a sheet of §-in. plywood can be used without box sides. Cloth pockets of appropriate colors can be tacked to the rear of the four openings. For further simplification, cut triangular openings and paint a circular orange pumpkin on the front, against a black or dark green background.