Jackets. - Jackets are almost the hardest thing to make for dolls, especially if they are made of velvet or a thick cloth. The best material to make them of is, of course, black silk. Cut the fronts out as at No. 1, and the back as in No. 2 ; the sleeves, No. 3. Then it is better to bind it all round with braid, which sits better, and is less clumsy, than a hem.

Dresses for China Dolls. - The best way to make little china doll's dresses is all in one. A long, straight piece joined at the back, and hemmed round the bottom;"two holes cut for the arms, and then turned down at the neck, and gathered, drawing it up, not tightly round the neck, but just on to the shoulder, so that you can fasten it off, and yet leave room to pass it over the head. Tie a sash round the waist, and the doll is dressed. A petticoat made in the same way is all that is required. Any thing else does not sit; the dolls being so small, it makes them look simply like a bundle of clothes. A cloak is the best thing for this sort of dolls for an outdoor garment. Cut this in the shape of a half-moon, and in the middle of the straight side cut out a small piece for the neck. Make this in red merino, OI some soft thin material, and bind it round with narrow black ribbon, without an edge. Hats can be made on a shape made with cap-wire, and then trimmed ; but a very good plan is to get the lid of a pill-box (of course it must fit the doll's head), and cover it with black velvet, and it makes a charming little turban-hat.

I have not as yet said a word about boy-dolls. There is but one way in which they can be made to look nicely, - I mean big dolls.

Boys' Knickerbockers. - A dark-blue serge, black velvet, or (if in summer) holland, are the best stuffs to make them of. I give a pattern of the knickerbockers at No. 1, Fig. 75. Each leg must be run up, and then joined to

Jackets

Fig. 74.- Jackets.

gether at the top, making a hem round the bottom, in which run some elastic. It is a very good way to sew them on to a broad elastic band, which will, of course, stretch; so that the knickerbockers can be taken off and on.

Boys' Knickerbockers

Fig. 75.-Boys' Knickerbockers.

Trousers

Fig. 76. - Trousers.

A tunic is the best thing to make for boy-dolls ; and it is best to cut it in two pieces, as in No. 2, Fig. 75. Join the sides together, and hem it round the bottom. Put in the sleeves, and cut an opening down the front, so that it may be put over the doll's head. It is best to bind it with narrow braid round the neck, and down the front, which must be buttoned with tiny buttons; and then put a band round the waist.

The men in the doll's house are very hard to dress; and it is, I think, almost impossible to make their things to come off and on. The shirt must, of course, be thought of first. But there is no necessity to make a whole shirt, - merely a front, with two pieces to pass over the back. A small collar must be attached to this, under which must be passed a narrow piece of ribbon to form a tie. The trousers must be cut in two pieces (Fig. 76), and joined. The waistcoat is simply two pieces crossed over from the back, with two or three buttons, which are easily made with bits of black silk sewed up into little rounds to imitate them. The coat is made in the same way exactly as the one I described for the big doll, of course altered as to size. It does not do to make either the shirt or the waistcoat entirely, as it makes the coat sit so badly.

Normandy Peasant. - The underclothing for this costume should be full, and reaching just below the knees; the dress petticoat of red merino or delaine, trimmed with three rows of narrow black velvet at equal distances, and just a little longer than the under petticoat; black velvet bodice, with long points behind and before, cut square, and laced up the front; white muslin sleeves, coming just below the elbow, left loose, and rather full; white muslin half-handkerchief crossed upon the chest and over the bodice; muslin apron with pockets; gold beads round the neck, and gold cross ; long gold ear-rings ; a rosary hung from the left side ; thick shoes and white stockings, or, if it is a china doll, the feet can be painted to imitate them.

Sewing-And-Doll-s-Dress-Making-Part-3-92

Fig. 77.

If you are dressing a small china doll, take for the cap a piece of stiff white writing-paper about an inch and a half to an inch and three-quarters in depth. For the length, meas ure round the doll's head, allowing a little piece on each side to admit of the paper being bent up the back, as in Fig. 77.

Cover the paper with muslin, and trim round the forehead and up the ends with very narrow lace. Sew up the cap at the bend in the paper ; fill up the top to form the crown with muslin gathered in. Press out the flaps behind until they present this appearance (Fig. 78).

This completes the costume. If the doll is larger, of course the height of the cap must be increased, as it is the chief characteristic of the dress.

Italian Peasant.-The underclothing is the same as for the Normandy peasant, except being a little longer. Dress-skirt of blue or any bright-colored merino, trimmed with three or four rows of different colored braids, either vandyked, or straight round the skirt; bodice of black velvet, with small basque behind, cut low in the neck, and open stomacher laced across with braids to match the skirt; the neck of the bodice to be trimmed, with a muslin tucker ; white muslin sleeves to the wrist, either open or closed ; black velvet ribbon round the neck, with a cross hanging on the chest; a rosary hung from the left side ; thin black shoes and white stockings.

If the doll is the same size as the Normandy peasant, take for the cap a piece of white writing-paper about two inches in length and an inch and a half in width. Place it on the doll's head lengthwise ; then bend the paper so as to make it fall close to the back of the head. Cover the paper with muslin, and trim round with lace. The cap may be kept in shape by drawing your thread tightly from the crown to the top of the flap behind, of course from underneath.

Sewing-And-Doll-s-Dress-Making-Part-3-93

Fig. 78.

The costume is now complete. If you are dressing china dolls, the best thing to fasten caps on to the head is liquid glue.

Spanish Dancer. - The underskirts are very short, and several of them made of tarlatan, and pinked out; muslin drawers, wide and very full. The dress may be made of any bright-colored silk or satin, trimmed with black lace flounces, and short. The bodice should be a low square, and sleeves to the elbow, trimmed with lace to match the skirt. On the hands there should be long mittens ; and in the hair a high comb and red rose, with a black lace mantilla thrown over the comb, and fastened on the side with the rose. Either boots or shoes may be worn, bronze or gold-color.

Marquise Dress.-To show off this dress the doll should be of good size. Make the underclothing - consisting of chemise, flannel petticoat, white petticoats - all very nice, and very much trimmed. For the dress-petticoat have a piece of white or rose-colored satin trimmed across the front with lace; for the train, a handsome piece of brocaded satin, trimmed up the sides and round the train with lace. The bodice is cut square behind, and sleeves to the elbow, trimmed with lace. There should be a stomacher made of the same material as the skirt-petticoat, all made of the same brocade as the train. Shoes with high heels, rosettes, and silk stockings.

To make the doll complete, she should have long, straight hair, which must be rolled back from the forehead on a cushion ; and the hair from the back of head must be rolled up on another cushion, with a long curl hanging from the left side, with a flat bow in the hair to match the skirt. The hair must be powdered, and on the face two or three black patches, - one on the forehead toward the left side ; one on the chin, to the right; and one on each cheek. This completes the dress.