By one method of brazing band-saws it is necessary to provide an iron, shaped as in Fig. 1, the two arms of the fork being at least 1 1/2 in. long by | in. wide, and welded and attached to a handle of 1/2-in. or 5/8-in. round iron, about 2 ft. long. A camp (Fig. 2) is also required; it is made out of 3/4-in. by ', in. iron, and is thickened at the ends to take 3/8-in. set bolts (see Fig. 3). File each end of the saw for the length of two teeth, and fix the ends in the cramp as shown in Fig. 2, taking care that the saw is quite straight. Twist one loop of iron binding wire round the splice to hold it in place; then bind about a foot or more, according to the width of saw, of soft brass brazing wire round the splice. Moisten the whole with a saturated solution of borax, heat the iron (Fig. 1) to a bright heat (technically known as a spurtling heat), and slip it over the saw so that the splice comes between the .jaws. When the brass wire melts and runs into the splice, remove the iron, let the saw cool to a dull red, and then quench in oil, afterwards filing up the braze. Perhaps the most simple and reliable method is to use bright-hot tongs and black-hot tongs. File the ends of the saw taper for the length of two or three teeth, so that when lapped one over the other they will be the thickness of the blade. Damp the ends, then place a little powdered borax and brass spelter between the ends that are being lapped. Heat a pair of heavy tongs in the fire until bright-hot, then close them tightly on the joint until the spelter runs, which will occur, if the tongs are properly hot, in less than a minute. While slipping this pair of tongs off, another pair, made black-hot. must be quickly slipped on by one who has been holding them in readiness, and closed tightly on the joint. Remove these, hammer the joint tightly, and clean up with a single-cut flat file. To set the teeth, lay the blade of the saw on a small steel anvil, the edge of which is bevelled. The teeth must overhang the bevel, and every alternate tooth is struck with a small hammer.

When this is done, turn the saw, and treat the remaining teeth in like manner. To correct any irregularity in the set, the teeth should be side-jointed. This is done by placing a topping file longitudinally against the sides of the teeth, and lightly passing it over all the teeth on each side. A rest for the saw can be made from a piece of flat iron, as shown in Fig. 4, where R is the rest. The part II may be held in a vice, or secured to the end of a bench with a clamp. The saw is placed on the rest, and held in position by means of four small clamps C. These clamps are tightened on the saw and rest by turning the little thumbscrews T. Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of one of the clamps. These may be made from 3/16-in. or l/4-in. flat iron; the rest is made from 5/16-in. or 3/8-in. flat iron, and must be perfectly straight. When brazing, keep the back edge of the saw fair with the edge of the rest.