Frederick A. Drapr.

While the topic here presented is an old one and much has been written about it, the large number to whom photography is new and its processes unknown make it suitable for a place in the columns of this magazine. There are many amateur photographers who do not develop their plates or make their own prints, and who, for no sufficient reason, are reluctant to attempt this work. Could they but once experience the pleasure this most interesting part of the photographic process can give, they would hold back no longer. Those of our readers who are thus situated should provide themselves with an outfit and learn to do their own developing.

Assuming that a dark room is available, a ruby lantern is necessary. This should have both ruby and orange glass, and free from any holes that emit white rays from the inside. The equipment should also include three trays of proper size for the plates used, and two glass graduates. Each article should be labeled and used solely for the particular solution assigned to it. A wash-box and drying frame are also desirable. A very useful and inexpensive device recently put on the market is a rocker for keeping the developer moving while otherwise engaged. It is a piece of enameled iron, with a hole in the top in which the tray rests. Two sides are bent down and rounded. A push on one end will give a gentle rocking motion, which continues for some time, and serves admirably to move the developer across the plate in small waves.

The developer should be that recommended by the manufacturer of the plates used, several formulas being generally given. Many plate-makers issue leaflets containing much information valuable to the novice, and which may be read with profit. After some experience has been acquired, and satisfactory results have not been produced, the troubles should be studied to learn their cause. The exposures may not be correct, and herein lies the most common cause of poor negatives; the plates may be old, the camera, plate-holders and plates not properly dusted ; the trays changed, or solutions mixed that should have been kept entirely apart. Watchful care is necessary at all times, but not to the extent of making the work tiresome or disagreeable.

For the first trial any standard developer will answer. The water used for reducing, when necessary, should be distilled, although rain-water, gathered in a clean porcelain or enamel dish, will answer nicely. In addition to the developer a bottle of restrainer should always be kept within reach, in case of over-exposure. This is easily prepared as follows: dissolve 1 ounce of bromide of potassium in 10 ounces of pure water. The cork of the bottle should have a piece of quill or glass tubing run through it, so that a few drops of the solution may be quickly thrown into the developer in an emergency.

To make clearer the process of developing, we will assume that the plate has been exposed for a landscape and we are about to develop with a hydro-metol one-solution developer. The exposure was about correct as to time. The dark-room door is locked, the ruby lantern lighted and placed at sufficient distance so that only a dim light is thrown across the trays. The bottle of developer is opened, the quantity specified is poured into a glass graduate, and to this is added the specified quantity of pure water. The plate is removed from the holder, dusted with a camel-hair brush, and placed, gelatine side up, in the tray. The developer is then poured over the plate from one end, so as to send it across the plate in a wave that will cover the whole plate. The tray should be gently rocked to keep the developer moving wavelike across the plate. Many photographers wet the plate with water before developing, to facilitate the flow of the developer. In about 30 seconds, faint lines will begin to appear, growing stronger, till gradually the whole plate is covered. 'The development is continued until the high lights are quite dark, and the milky white appearance has completely disappeared. The view can now be seen with more or less distinctness from the back of the plate. Do not stop development too soon, - a very common error with beginners,- as loss of detail and contrast results. Different makes of plates work differently, so experience is the best teacher in this matter.

Had the plate been much over-exposed, the image would appear instantly the developer was applied. When this occurs, remove at once from the developer and wash with one change of water. Then add to the developing solution from three to six drops of the restrainer above mentioned, according to the degree of over-exposure, and continue development as before. If you have reason to believe that any plate has been over-exposed, use a larger proportion of water when beginning development, adding more developer later. With a two-solution developer, which will be considered at another time, over-exposed and also under-exposed plates are more easily handled by varying the proportions of the different solutions.

Under-exposed plates, which frequently come with snap-shot work on cloudy days, are slower in developing; the high lights, i.e., the sky, water reflections, and white painted houses, etc., appear long before the darker portion of the view becomes visible. Working with a one-solution developer, the best thing to do is to make a very weak solution with water and take a long time in developing. A drop or two of restrainer should be added when this is done, to prevent fog. Also cover the tray with a piece of black cardboard, so that no light of any kind will reach it.

When you think the plate has been fully developed, hold it before the ruby lantern to ascertain the extent to which detail has been brought out. If fully developed, plate should be quite dense.

After developing, place the plate in the wash-box and wash with cool running water for 15 minutes. Do not allow water to run directly down on plate. The water should run only fast enough to carry off the excess chemicals. If running water is not available, change the water six or eight times. It is then ready for fixing. Make a saturated solution of " hypo " and keep it in a labeled bottle. Have a fixing tray similarly labeled and use for no other purpose. Take equal parts of "hypo" solution and pure water to fill the tray one-third full. Place the negative in the tray, film side up, and rock as before directed, keeping it in the fixing bath at least two minutes after the yellowish color on the back of the negative has entirely disappeared.

Another washing for at least 15 minutes, though a half-hour is better, completes the work of developing. The negative should be allowed to thoroughly dry in a drying rack before attempting to make prints. Owing to the time required for the several washings, it is desirable to develop several plates at one time. It is also more economical to do this. The time required in washing one plate can then be used in developing and fixing of others. In changing the work from developing to fixing, or the reverse, wash the hands in water, without soap, and dry with a clean towel. At all times use precautions to keep the hands free from chemicals. After fixing, the negative can be freely exposed to white light.

The process here described may seem, at first reading, complicated and difficult, but a few trials will make it very easy. When it has become familiar, a two-solution developer is recommended, as it gives a greater range of adaptability. The uses of the different chemicals will then become evident, and effects can be gained in negatives that would be otherwise difficult to attain.