The window-frames are made of 7/8" stock about 51/2" wide, fitted in between the studs. The top is fitted first, and the sides are fitted against the top and should extend to the floor, to ensure the windows running smoothly. As described, no allowance has been made for window weights. If these are desired to balance the windows, the studs must be put enough farther apart to admit them, and pulleys must be fitted at the top of the frames. The windows will probably be fully as satisfactory without them, however, as the sash is not heavy.

Just under the window-sill, two pieces are fitted between the casings, on edge, as in Fig. 16, to hold the ends of the sheathing, leaving a space between for the sash to run. If desired, the door-frames can be built up in the same way as the window-frames, of 7/8 " stock, and a strip fastened around to form the door-jamb.

If the house is to be used in other than warm weather, a layer of paper, such as is generally used for building purposes, should be put on before sheathing; it comes in rolls, and can be tacked to the studs to hold it in place. It will add much to the warmth of the house.

The sheathing is 7/8|" thick, matched, and put on with the beaded side outwards. The joints with the bottom strip must be good, but at the top, under the roof, it is not as important, as the joint is covered. At the sides of the door and window frames the sheathing has to be fitted, but extreme care is not necessary. The grooves in the joints should all have a coat of lead before putting up, and the nails should be "set" 1/4". A strip, i (Fig. 13), about 4" wide is worked around just under the roof boards, to cover the joints at the top and make a finish. At the corners it is mitered.

The roof sheathing is trimmed off even with this strip all around. The opening for the stairs is also trimmed out square and even, and a coaming about 3" deep fitted around underneath at the edge. The opening should be about 3' long and 2' wide.

The roof and the decks at the end are covered with canvas; about 6-oz. duck, or even heavy drilling, will answer the purpose. It comes in rolls, usually 30" wide. The several strips are laid fore and aft, beginning with one down the middle, and working towards the edges, lapping each one over the next outer one, like the shingles on a house, and tacking with small copper tacks. Each length should be laid in a heavy coat of paint and should be stretched somewhat, to bo sure of its lying smoothly. At the sides and ends, and also in the opening for the stairs, the canvas is turned down over the edge and tacked, and then trimmed off just under the row of tacks. A piece of molding, or a half-round strip, as shown at j, Fig. 13, is nailed around just even with the edge, to cover the canvas and keep it in place. The top will need at least two coats of lead paint to wear well. The decks at the ends are covered in the same way, except that where the canvas comes against the house it is turned up and a 3/4 quarter-round molding worked into the corner. The edge here is best covered by a 2" half-round, which can run the full length of the hull, and adds somewhat to the appearance, especially if varnished. Although the house is best when sheathed inside, for some purposes, as for a hunting or shooting camp, this may not be necessary; in which case the studs and sills ought to be planed all over. If inside sheathing is desired, it may be 1/2" thick and matched. It is jointed to the floor, and may, if desired, be stopped at the lower edge of the roof beams, and a molding carried along the top; or, if a little better finish is wished for, it can be carried up to the roof, being cut out around the beams, in which case .the molding is put up against the roof. This sheathing ought to be blind nailed, as in Fig. 15, so as to leave no nail holes. A fairly good joint around doors and windows is all that is necessary.

The windows are to be finished by fitting a window-sill on both inside and outside, as shown in Fig. 16, leaving a slot for the window. These sills should be neatly fitted between the frames, and be wide enough to extend out over the sheathing and fit against the casing. This casing is about 4" wide, worked around the window, as in Fig. 1, 1/2" thick on the inside and 7/8" on the outside. Above each outside casing there is a strip of lead or zinc turned at a right angle and laid along on the top of the casing, and tacked to the sheathing. This prevents rain leaking down behind the windows. The sashes are put in place and a strip nailed around to hold it in place and make a groove for it to slide in.

As balance weights have not been provided, some kind of binding arrangement must be used to keep the sash in place. There are little eccentric arrangements sold for this purpose. The bottom of the sash should fit tightly against the sill, and a piece of rubber weatherstrip should be tacked on the sill to bear against the sash and prevent from running down between the sill and sash. The partitions are single, of 7/8" matched stock, finished both sides. They are held in place by a quarter-round molding each side, both top and bottom. The lines of the partitions are marked out on the deck, making the middle one just inside the strongback under the roof beams. The inner quarter-round is nailed down, and the sheathing nailed to it and the floor. The outside molding is put on after the partition is all up. This partition ought to extend up to the roof, and be fitted around the beams. At the doors short pieces are used above, and the opening trimmed out to fit the door. Care must be taken not to drive any nails through the roof to cut the canvas. There are also moldings in the corner between the partitions and the side sheathing. An ornamental molding like the one already run at the side under the beams, if carried around the partitions at the same height, will take away the bare effect, and add to the appearance. The openings for the doors in the partitions have to be fitted with casings the same as the windows. These are about 5" wide, except that the outside casing projects about an inch into the opening, making a jamb for the door to shut against. The door-sill is about 6" wide, beveled off on the sides, and joined to the molding already put around the bottom of the partitions. The doors can be hung, using butt hinges, which do not show. Some kind of latch or knob should be fitted, to hold the doors shut, and locks if desired.

The hatches in the deck are trimmed out about 2' square, cutting out the top layer first and allowing the lower layer to project 1" to support the cover. The cover is made of two layers, the upper one of the same stock as the floor boards, and cut to fit accurately. The lower layer is nailed across the upper, and the two being crossed, the cover cannot warp. A sunken handle or ring should be attached for lifting.

The stairs to the roof run from about the middle of the boat diagonally up to the opposite side of the opening above. They are made of two planed 2" planks about 8" wide, resting on the deck and against the edge of the opening. The steps are about 8" apart, dividing the distance equally. A cleat about 2" wide is nailed under each end of each step to support it. If thought necessary, a hand-rail on the outer edge of the stairs can be provided.

The railings are 2" x4" planed joists, with a post of the same material every three or four feet apart. They are about 3' high, and should run around the top of the house, around the opening for the stairs and around the decks at the ends. The posts at every corner are braced with a diagonal brace or a bracket of iron fastened into the corner. It will be necessary to nail these posts through the canvas to the deck, and care must be taken not to injure the canvas more than necessary. These parts should also be placed just over a roof beam when possible. At the after end a piece of rail about 3' long should be hinged to allow a landing-place.

Some arrangement must be made for mooring the boat, cither ringbolts or bitts, one near each corner. If the former are used, they should be driven through a deck beam, and have a nut screwed up tight on the underside. A tight-fitting washer should be slipped on first to bear on the canvas and prevent tearing.

The bitts are rather more satisfactory on the whole. They are made of pieces of timber about 4" square, running through the deck and fastened to the bottom timbers. The top end is about 10" above the deck, and is champhered off, as in Fig. 15. A 3/4 rod is driven through and allowed to project about 5 inches each side. Either arrangement must be strongly made, as there is considerable strain in a heavy wind and in towing. Another and probably easier way of doing this is to make cleats out of oak or other strong wood, about 12" long and 4 high. These are bolted down to the deck with two bolts each, one bolt passing through a beam. If preferred, these can be purchased at a ship chandler's, in either iron or wood.

An awning framework is made of 2" square spruce. There is an upright in each forward corner of the forward deck, a few inches shorter than the height of the house; there is a piece of similar size connecting the tops of these uprights, and also a piece extending back to and fastened to the house. This makes a framework on which the awning will lie evenly. Or a rather neater frame is one of galvanized iron pipe, which is readily done, and is not expensive. An ornamental awning of striped duck will add to the attractiveness of the boat.

The house, as soon as completed, must be painted on the outside, and should have two coats, leaving a third to put on just before launching. The inside may be painted or finished natural, as desired; the latter is perhaps the best, as it is more durable. The surface should be first treated with a coat of oil, and then whatever finish is desired, put on after that. There are several kinds of oil finishes on the market, or shellac and varnish can be used. The canvas on the roofs and decks must be kept well painted, so that the wear will come on the paint and not on the canvas, as this would soon wear it through and cause leaks.