Charles Herrman.

Wherever there is shafting running, thus supplying a source of power, and the summer heat is felt, thus calling for an artificial breeze, there is room for the ingenuity of the amateur worker in the making and the driving of a fan. The one here described can easily be made, costs very little, and once properly assembled and put up, will last for years, with only an occasional oiling. One of the foremost machine shops in the world has over one hundred of them, and considers them unbeatable for their cost.

The fan completely assembled is shown in Fig. 1, partly in cross-section, to simplify explanation. A is a piece of 1" shafting of the proper length ; B is a piece of 1" pipe of suitable length (it must be remembered that piping is measured by the internal diameter). C is a split wooden pulley (preferably flanged, though this is not absolutely necessary), which when drawn tightly together takes firm hold of pipe B. D is a wrought or cast iron collar, held securely at the bottom of pipe B by means of a set screw, and has two 5/8 " holes tapped through it (diametrically opposite) for the wings or fan blades to screw into. E E are two 5/8" rods or shafts, threaded for 11/2" of their length at one end, so as to enable their being screwed into collar D, the rest of the length being flattened (either filed, shaped, or, best of all, blacksmith-hammered), to allow of a flat contact with sheet iron blades F, to which they are joined by rivets or screws through three holes drilled in E. The two lock nuts G G are carried on the rods ally been as simple as a cheaply made machine will allow, and outside of the cost of the records should be built for less than one dollar for materials. After the success of the machine has been assured another may be constructed as elaborately as the builder may wish. Made with hardwood and metal parts, it will compare favorably with a machine of many times its cost. If several are made in one neighborhood, records may be exchanged, thus getting a variety of pieces at little cost.

E E, which, though allowing of any angular adjustment of the blades when firmly jammed against the collar D, lock the wings securely in place and keep them from working loose. II is a 1" wrought or cast iron collar, held by a set screw at the bottom of shaft A, which serves to keep the whole fan arrangement - which revolves around the shaft A and upon itself - from falling down.

The bottom of the fan should be at least 7' from the floor, so as to allow of the safe passage of a tall person. With the blades as set and the shaft turning as shown in Fig. 2, a downward current is had. If the shaft motion be reversed, be sure to reverse the angle of your fan blades, or you will only be fanning the ceiling. When erecting the fan the shaft A^must go up first. Be sure to have it plumb both ways, or the belt will run poorly or not at all.

Figs. 3, 4 and 5 show three ways of fastening to the ceiling. In Fig. 3 it is fastened to one of the ceiling-supporting rafters by two lag screws or bolts running through the timber. The shaft need not be flattened where it comes in contact with the rafter or where the bolt-head touches it. It will hold the more firmly if not weakened by filing. Fig. 4 is self-explanatory, lag screws being used to hold the shaft to the timber.

In Fig. 5 the shaft is threaded sufficiently to allow two \" nuts (with washers if a wooden plate, or without them if an iron plate is used) to be placed one above and one below the plate, to lock the shaft into position. To bring the shaft plumb both ways in this case the plate must be shimmed level both ways.

Assuming that we have got our fan up and plumbed (we have, of course, placed it in such relation to the driving shaft as will give us a clear space on the driving shaft for the driving pulley), it is now necessary to drive it at between 200 and 250 revolutions'per minute (R. P. M.). Our main shaft runs, we will say, 125 R. P. M. Pulley "C of the fan is 4" diameter; then our main shaft pulley must be an 8" diameter to give the necessary speed to the fan. This pulley should be a split wooden, and preferably flanged, though it may be iron and unflanged; if the latter, it must be crowned.

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Fig. 1 fig. 2

How To Build A Shop Fan 244How To Build A Shop Fan 245

Fig.5