John F. Adams.

The hall settle here described is a very convenient piece of furniture. The box-seat forms a very handy receptable for rubbers, etc. Like the furniture previously presented, it should be made of oak. The corner posts are 21/2" square, the front ones being 27" long and the back ones 331/2" long. The boards forming the sides of the seat are §" thick and 9" wide, planed on both sides. The pieces for the front and back are 44" long and for the sides 12" long. The lower edges of these pieces are 6" from the floor.

Mortises 1/2" deep are made in the posts to receive these pieces. They should be the full size of the board, and centered in the posts, the lower ends of mortises being 6" from the bottom ends of the posts. Mortises are also cut 1/2" deep for the board forming the back. This board is 44" long, 10" wide and 1/2" thick. The upper edge should be 11/2" from the top of the posts, which are beveled to a point, as shown in the illustration. The bevels take 1/2" of the tops of all the posts. The tops of front posts after beveling are cut down 1/4" on each side for 110/2", forming a shoulder, on which rests the front ends of the arms. This may be easily done with a backsaw, and then smoothed with sandpaper. This leaves the tops of these posts 2" square.

When the work so far described is completed, the frame should be set up, the pieces being glued into the mortises and also fastened on the inside of the seat-box by screws, which run into the posts. The board for the back should be put in at this time. The end pieces for the seat are then fitted. They are 16" long, 6" wide and 3/4" thick. Pieces are cut out of the outside corners to allow room for the posts, the outside edges and ends being flush with the sides of the posts at front, sides and back. Care should be used in fitting these pieces to get good square fits. The rear inside ends should be halved on the underside, to receive the ends of the rear piece that runs length-wise of the seat. If a piece 4" long, 1" wide and 3/8" thick is taken off, the joint will be strong enough.

The rear piece for the seat is 38" long, 4" wide and 3/4|" thick, allowing 1" on each end for halving to fit the end pieces. See that the inside edge is straight, as should also be the inside edge of the board forming the seat. The seat is 36" long, 12" wide and 3/4" thick, and should be a snug fit to the seat pieces, already described. If a good board of this width cannot be obtained, the rear piece may be made 6" wide and the seat 10" wide, but the dimensions previously given are the best. The side and back pieces of the seat are attached to the frame by screws, countersunk and covered with putty. The putty should be colored with stain, so that, should it crack or become dented, it will not be conspicuous. The seat is attached to the rear piece by three brass hinges, which should show as little as possible. The arms are 16" long, 5" wide and §" thick. The front corners are slightly rounded. Holes are cut in the front ends to receive the tops of the front posts. These holes should be 2" from the front end and 2" square. The back ends are cut down 1" to fit around the back posts, as shown in the illustration. The arms should be strongly attached to the posts with glue and screws, the heads being countersunk and covered with the stained putty.

The bottom of the seat-box is made of white-wood 7/8" thick. This will require a board 445/8" long and 12|" wide. The corners will have to be cut out to fit around the posts. It should then be well nailed with wire nails, first drilling holes through the oak side pieces for the nails, to prevent splitting, and covering the holes with putty.

To prevent the seat from splitting, three strips 10" long, 11/2" wide and 1/2" thick may be secured on the underside, with four screws to each strip.

They should be zigzagged, with the heads countersunk.

When completed, go over the whole surface with fine sandpaper, then stain with a very dark stain. When the stain is dry, put on a coat of very thin shellac, and rub over with a coat of polish, applied with a soft cloth. A hair-stuffed velvet cushion of the same shade as the stain adds much to the appearance of the settle. A mirror with clothes-hooks, to hang over the settle, will be described in another article.