George S. Kingman
Lovers of flowers who desire to indulge in their pastime of gardening during the winter months, and are deterred from doing so because of living in a rented bouse and so object to erecting a permanent build-lDg, will find the portable conservatory here described both useful and satisfactory. It can be cheaply constructed and the cost of maintainance will be very little ; in f act,'it can be made a source of considerable revenue by any one desirous of raising flowers for local sale.
Should the portable feature not be required, a permanent structure can easily be adapted from the drawings, the changes being slight, consisting principally in leaving out the extra timbers required when made in sections,
Before beginning construction it will first be necessary to decide upon the location, and the end in which is to be located the heater, unless the heating is to be done by pipes taken off the heater used for the dwelling house. Ordinarily a conservatory of even span is located with the length running north and south with the heater in the north end, but it may so happen that while this direction is retained the heater may have to be placed at the south end. In such a case the sheathed end is placed at the south and the door at the north end.
If the occasion requires the houses to be run east and west, a design having a three quarter span roof to the south, and one-quarter to the north would be preferable, and the heater would be located in a northerly corner. The bill of materials required for the design given, 45 ft. long and 8 ft. wide, is as follows: 48 ft. 4x6 in. spruce, rough stock. 48 ft. 2 x 3 in. spruce, planed. 15 ft. 2x6 in. " 300 ft. 2x3 in. " "
400 ft. | in. cypress sheathing. 120 ft. 1 1/2 in- cypress sash bar with deep gutter. 120 ft. cypress sash bar for ends. 70 pieces, single glass 13 1/2 x 21 in. 8 " " " 15x34 in.
4 window sash, with 4 lights 13 1/2 x 26 in. 1 door 50 x 66 in., upper panels glass. Also, a roll of thick sheathing paper, having no tar, lead paint, nails, hinges, etc., which altogether will cost about $75 without heater or piping. A small hot-water heater, expansion tank, and piping will cost $30, or if second-hand pipe can be obtained from a building being torn down, this item will be reduced slightly. All the lumber is planed all over except the first item, which is for the foundation.
In beginning construction, the first thing is to cut out two pieces of 4 x 6 in. timber 15 ft. 6 in. long, and two pieces 8 ft. long. The shorter pieces have tenons cut on the ends to joint into the longer pieces. When this is done, dig a shallow, level trench in the ground, in which to lay the timbers.
The sides may next be made from two pieces 15 ft. lorig and five pieces 5 ft. long, or 2 x 3 in. timber. As this stock is planed it will actually measure only 1 3/4 x 2 3/4 in. In the shorter pieces cut tenons to joint into the long pieces. The spacing between the first, second and third timbersis 4 ft. 9 in.; between the third, fourth and back pieces 2 ft. 5 in. Between the front and fourth timbers and 2 ft. 10 in. above the bottom piece, put a piece 12 ft. 5 in. of 2 x4 in., halving the joints with the second and third timbers. This piece is given a slight slant outward, to shed rain water, as it forms the sill of the side windows. The ends are carried by the uprights, as with any window sill, and the outside edge projects 1 1/4 in.
On the under side of this piece and flush with the edges of the uprights, nail a piece of l 1/2x2 in. stock, the upper edge being cut at an angle to fit under the sill and have the front edge vertical. This stock can be cut from 2x3 in. stock with a rip saw. Cover the frame under the sill and at the sheathed end with sheathing paper, and then put on the sheathing. Begin at the sheathed end and have the first piece lap over 3 3/4 in., so that the joint with the end section will be tight. At the front end a similar lap should be given for the front end. The piece covering the fourth upright should be cut to fit flush with the front edge of the upright.
The front is next to be made. The bottom piece is 7 ft. 11 in. long; the two corner pieces 6 ft. long; the two roof pieces 4 ft. 8 in. long of 2 x 3 in. stock. The two pieces on either side of the door are 8 ft. 4 in. long, 2x4 in. stock, set outward 1 in. The piece above the door is 30 in. long. All joints are mortised. Between the door and ends are placed pieces of sash bar, and also above the door, after putting in cross pieces of 2x4, set at an angle as on the sides. The sheathing paper and sheathing is put on as before mentioned.
The rear end, being sheathed all over, is framed up about as for the front, with the exception that in place of the door, a cross piece of 2 x3 in. stock is put across level with the tops of the end pieces, and another piece 3ft. above the bottom piece. A sheathed partition at the heater end is framed the same as the front.
The frames for the roof are next in order; five of them being alike and one having a galvanized iron opening for the heater pipe, as shown in the illustration of the roof. This frame, as well is the correspond" ing one on the other side of the roof, has wide center di-Tision pieces, which cover the top of the sheathed partition. These frames are made up of end and ordinary-Bash bars, excepting the lower sides, which are of 3/4 in. board, 4 in. wide, halved on the under side of the sash bar. The upper face of the board is made even with the rabbets in the sash bars, which allows the glass forest flat upon the board.
The glazing is all to be done with butt joints where-ever any occur, as will be described later. The upper part of the roof frames are to be fitted with ventilators made the same way as the roof frames and hinged to the ridge. The dimensions of the roof frames are 6x4 ft. 10 in., outside dimensions, and the ventilator frames, 4 ft. 10 in. by 2 ft. 7 in., which allows for bevels on the upper sides to fit the ridge. The sash bars are spaced to receive glass 13 1/2x21 in. in the roof frames, and 13 1/2|x26 in. in the ventilators.
These parts being completed, they may be erected and fastened together as follows: The sides and ends are fastened to the foundation timbers with 3x1/4i in. lag screws, boring holes for same and putting washers under the heads of the lag screws. The corners are fastened with three 2 in. angle irons; one each at the top and bottom and one at the center. Where the side sheathing laps, the ends fasten with 2 in. galvanized wood screws countersinking the heads. It should have been mentioned that a pot of white lead paint should be at hand during all the work, and every mortise and joint liberally coated with paint when finally assembling the parts.
The ridge pole is next to be fitted; it is 15 ft. 10 in. long, of 2x6 in. stock, and reste in saddle pieces nailed to the inner peak of the ends. The shape is shown in the end view, and the ridge is cut out 2 in. on the lower corners to pass over the peak of the ends.
Mortises are cut in the ridge and top pieces of the sides for two rafters on each side, 5 ft. 10 in. long and 2 x 3 in. stock. They are fastened in place with two 2 1/2 in. screws at each end. It will also be advisable to put two 2 x 3 in. stringers across from the sides to hold the latter firmly in place during the erecting of the building. The roof frames are fastened to the ends, rafters, sides, etc., with angle irons and screws. The joints between the roof frames are covered with 3/4 in. battens 2 1/2 in. wide, fastened with screws, and wider pieces over the joints at the ends. It will be necessary to fit pieces on the ends to bring the height equal to the frames before fitting the end battens, which should all be coated with lead paint when put on.
The door case is made with strips of £ in. stock, 1 1/4 in. wide, nailed to the timbers and set in 1/4 in. Similar strips | x 1 in. are nailed around the timbers on the sides where the side windows are located, the strips being inside the windows, which swing outward. The lower pieces must be beveled to the slant of the sill.
The plant stands are made separate from the building, being ordinary table frame construction, with front strips rising 9 in. above the level of the tops, which are 30 in. high. The center aisle should be 30 in. wide. No directions are given for fitting the hot-water heater, as, unless one is quite familiar with such work, it would best be done by a plumber. Good circulation is very important, and not to be obtained unless the piping is properly done.
The glazing is done last to avoid breakage. The "single" thick glass is specified in the bill of materials, but in localities where heavy hail storms are frequent, " double " thick will be advisable to avoid expensive breakage. When setting the glass, have at hand a smooth board upon which is a layer of white paint and putty, half and half, thinned with linseed oil to the consistency of thin paste. Press the edges of the glass into the mixture previous to setting. With nippers break off the lower corners of the glass to allow of 1/2wire brads being driven into the sash, which will prevent the downward movement of the glass. Use diamond point glazier's brads, and coat the sash liberally with the paint-putty mixture before laying the glass using a flexible putty knife. Before and after glazing paint all the wood work with lead paint. The final coat may be tinted a light gray, if desired, and wear8 better than pure white.