John F. Adams
Although wall cabinets are not now used as much as formerly, yet in many homes one like that here described would be found useful for storing the numerous small articles required in the den, library or bath-room. It is best made with wood of light weight, and stained as desired, so as to avoid a cabinet too heavy to easily suspend on the wall. The stock used should be about | in. thick.
To obtain the necessary strength the framing is somewhat peculiar. The top piece overall the cupboards is in one piece 38 in. long, 10 in. wide over the center, and 9 in. wide over the end compartments. The two pieces forming the sides of the center division are 30 in long and 10 in. wide. They are cut through from the back to a depth of 6 in., the upper cut being 3 in. from the top ends, to receive the top board, which is cut from the front to a depth of 4 in. the cuts spaced to give 18 in. between the two side pieces. Care must be taken in sawing the slots on the sides not to break off the overhanging piece at the top. It is also advisable, after the cabinet is finally assembled, to cut out a piece at the back about $ in. deep and 3 in. long, and fit a piece of the same size, which is nailed in place, one end to the top, the other end below the slot and the center to the top board.
The cross piece under the center cupboard and the shelf underneath are each 18f in. long and 10 in. wide, allowing 3-16 in. ateach end to fit in grooves cut in the sides. The height of the cupboard is 18 in. and the shelf is 6 in. below the bottom of the cupboard.
The two outside cupboards are 21 in. high, and 7 1/2 in. wide. The pieces forming the outer sides are 25 in. long and 9 in. wide. The ends rise above the top board 1 1/2 in. and drop 1 in. below the bottom of the under board. The projecting tenons, to receive the pins, may be single ones 4 in. wide or double ones 2 1/4 in. wide, as preferred, but this must be decided before beginning construction, to prevent error in cutting. It will be found that much aid can be obtained from drawings made of each piece one-half or one-quarter full size. All dimensions are marked thereon and checked off to insure corrections. The time taken to make such drawings is more than made up by the rapidity with which the work can be followed by their aid.
The pieces under the end cupboards are 9 7-16 in. long and 9 in. wide, allowing 3-16 in. on the inner end to fit into a groove cut in the space between the end and center cupboards, and 1 3/4 in. for the tenon through the outer side piece. The rear edges of all the pieces mentioned should have rabbets cut to receive the backing, matched sheathing! in. thick being used; the rabbets should be, for stock of this thickness, 1/4 in. wide and 1/2 in. deep.
Above the cupboards at the back are fitted pieces, as shown in the illustration, that over the center being 3 in. wide, and over each end 1 1/2 in. wide. Also, a piece is needed under the center cupboard which should be 6 in. wide, if no rabbets are cut for it, or 6 1/2 in. wide with rabbets.
The shelves for the cupboards can be located to suit the convenience of the maker, and are 8 1/2 in. wide in the center and are 7 1/2 in. wide in the end cupboards. The doors may all be panelled as shown for the ends, or smooth as in the center. If made smooth there should be cleats 2 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, fitted to the ends on the inside. They should be glued in place, the drying being done in clamps. The usual fittings of hinges, knobs and locks will need no description.