John F. Adams

The bureau here described is a companion piece to the bedstead shown in the priveious issue of this magazine. The peculiar feature of the bedstead, the spindles, cannot be embodied in the bureau to the same extent as in the bed, but is included to the extent that is necessary to make it harmonize with the bed. The making of a piece of furniture as difficult as this requires careful work in lifting all joints, and fastening all parts securely together.

The frame and drawers should first be made, the panelled ends being taken up first. The four posts are 2 1/4 x 2 in. and 33 in. long. Beginning 12 1/4 in. from the lower ends, the posts are bevelled off, as shown in the drawing, to 1 1/2 in. square. This dimension depends upon the size and the shape of the castors used, the preferable style having square ferules, to match those used on the bed, so the castors should be purchased before cutting the bevels. The posts are spaced 14 in. apart, making the crosspieces 15 in. long, which allows 1. 2 in. at each end for the tenons fitting mortises cut in the center of the posts. The tenons should be 3/8 in. thick. The upper crosspiece is 4 in. wide and the lower on 5 in. wide. They are 15 in. apart, making the center piece between the panels 16 in. long; 1/2 in. on each end is allowed for the tenons. This center piece is 2 1/2 in. wide. The faces of the cross pieces, are sunk 1/4 in. inward from the end faces of the posts.

Grooves must be cut in the posts, the grooves being

1/4 in- wide and deep. The panels are 16 in. long.

6 1/8 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick. The ends should be set up between clamps, using care to get the joints well glued, and that the work or glue are not chilled

•during the work.

The top of the frame is made of two thicknesses of wood, the under one measuring 38 x 17 1/2 in. and 3/4 in. thick. Ordinary stock is quite good enough for this, as it is covered by the second layer, which is 42 x 20 in. and 7/8 in. thick. The second top should be carefully -selected to get a good match for the grain, as it will have to be glued up from two or three pieces. A 3/4 in. moulding is run around the edge of the under layer, the corners being mitred. This is not done, however, until after the frame is all assembled. The rear edge of the under top, when put finally in place, should be 1/2 in. from the rear face of the posts, to allow room for the sheathing as will be subsequently mentioned.

The ends are spaced 33 1/2 in. apart. Two pieces 86 1/2 in. long. 2 in. wide and 3/4 in. thick should have tenons cut on the ends. 1 in. long and 3/8 in thick: one pieces being put under the lower drawer and the other between the two back posts, the outer edge of the latter being sunk 1/2 in. inward from the lower ends of the posts. They are not put in places until the frame is entirely finished and ready to assemble. Two pieces of the same dimensions are put between the drawers, these pieces having the edges at the front and the tenons are only 1 in. wide. The piece between the upper and middle between the middle and lower drawer 7 1/4 in. below the other.

We are now ready to assemble the frame, which we will do as follows:-The pieces between and under the drawers are put in place, first coating tenons and mortises with glue, and also the strip at the lower part of the back. The under top piece is then put on, remembering to leave 1/2 in. at the back for the sheathing, using both glue and screws, and making sure that the spacing is correct and that all angles are square. The pieces between the drawers and at the back should also be pined with 1/8 in dowels. On the inside of the ends are now fastened with screws pieces of 7/8 in. boards 22 in. long and 14 in. wide. As the inner faces of the pieces should be flush with the inner faces o: the posts, it may be necessary to put thin pieces be tween them and the cross pieces of the ends. The runs for the drawers, 1 x 7/8 in. and about 15 in. long art now fastened with screws to the boards just put in place and the frame is then finished by putting on the backing of 1/2 in. sheathing. The sheathing is fastened with screws to the under top and the piece at the bottom. A division piece between the two upper drawers is made from a piece of board 16 1/2 in. long, 4 1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick. On the front end of this piece glue a piece 7/8 in. square, the grain running vertical, and on the under edge fasten with screws a piece 16 in. long and 3 in. wide to make the runs for the top dawers. This piece is fastened to the under top with screws and glue. In place of gluing on the small piece at the front end of this piece, it can be cut an inch longer and 1/2 in tenons cut on the ends to fit mortises in the top and cross .piece between the upper and middle drawers, which would be a preferable way to fit it. The upper top piece is now to be put on by first coating the surfaces of both tops with glue, and then screwing up about a dozen screws, holes for them having previously been bored and countersunk.

The drawers can now be made, and as previous articles have given the construction of drawers, and doubtful points can easily be solved by examining any similar piece of furniture about the house, only dimensions will be given. The upper drawers are 16 5/16 in. wide, 4 1/2 in. deep and 16 1/2 in. long, front to back. The two lower drawers are 33 1/2 in. wide, 7 1/4 in. deep and the same length. The pulls and other trimmings, should be those most suitable to the wood and finish adopted by the maker.

The mirror frame can now be taken up and will require three pieces 34 1/2 in. long, two pieces 34 in. long of stock 2 in. wide and 1 1/2 in. thick and about

9 ft. of 3/4 in. square for spindles. The pieces above and below the mirror are 34 in. long, the sides and curved piece are 34 1/2 in. long. The joints at the lower corners are open mortised; those above the mirror and the curved piece are blind mortised; the tenons on the latter being about 1 1/2 in. long. The mirror is 30 x 26 in. and fits in a rabbet cut in the inner back edges of the pieces surrounding it. The curved piece is cut out and the spindles fitted in the same way as described for the bed in the previous issue of this magazine. The edges of the frame around the mirror may be chamfered or not as prefered.

The frame supporting the mirror requires two posts 43 in. long, 2 in. wide and 1 1/2 in. thick. The upper 10 in. of these pieces are tapered off to 1 1/4 in. square, and 7 1/2 in. of the lower ends are cut out on the front faces to leave a thickness at the back of 5/8 in. A piece 41 in. long, 2 1/4 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick is beveled on the upper front edge and ends and another piece 36 in. long and 3 in. wide is fitted with tenons on the ends a little over 7/8 in. long which fit mortises cut in the posts located so that the piece just mentioned will lay flat under the ends of the posts where the full thickness begins, and the latter piece with mortised ends come down firmly against it, the two being firmly fastened together with glue and screws. Long screws of good size are also put up through the under piece into the ends of the posts. Pieces 1 in. wide and 3 in. long are also glued to the outside of the posts to represent continuations of the mortised pieces. Reference to the illustation will show what is required. The mirror frame it attached to the bureau with three screws of good size in each part of the post extending below the top at the back. The mirror pins upon which the mirror frame swings may be purchased of about any hardware dealer, and an inspection will show the proper way to put them on. After the mirror is in place, a layer of thick manilla paper should cover the back before putting on the wood backing, to keep out both dust and moisture which are injurious to mirrors.