Fig. 9. - Guage.
Fig. 10. - Gimlet.
Now remove the tray and have a try at putting on the lock. Mark out its place near the centre of the front portion of the box; cut carefully away with gouge and chisel only such portions as are needed to imbed the lock into the wood. Hold it in its place, and put a hole through the front by means of a brad-awl, to find the spot where the barrel of the key must go in; then enlarge this by means of a gimlet, such as is shown in Fig. 10. Then a trifle lower down bore a second hole which will admit the wards of the key; then connect the two by cutting the wood away with a chisel; or if you have not one Knell enough, try to do so with a penknife. This will form rather a rough keyhole, but with a small rat-tailed file it can be smoothed up; then put into it the eye which you will have bought with the lock. Now screw the lock into its place. See that it does not hinder the tray from being easily moved out or in. If the lock projects a little inwards, a portion of the front of the tray can be easily removed by the chisel. Now put your tray in, and screw into its place the "shoot" of the lock, the plate of which will have to be let into the under edge of the lid. Now shut the box, try the lock, see that the lid fits close all round, take a punch and hammer and knock the heads of the nails a little distance below the surface of the wood, then fill the small holes up with putty, level with the surface. Let them dry, and they will become as hard as the wood itself.
You can yourself make the putty you require by mixing whiting and linseed-oil, mixing it up by means of a thin knife, so that no lump is allowed in the mass. After the putty is dry, smooth all own and rub the box over with sand or glass-paper and make up your mind as to whether your work has been done creditably or not.
We think now it will be an improvement if you stain it with the umber mixture we mentioned in our last chapter. Do not put it on thick, but let it get well rubbed into the wood, and when thoroughly dry, put on a pair of black strong iron handles. Let them be exactly opposite to each other, and do not leave any portion of the screw-heads above the handle-plates, or your hands are likely to be cut when grasping them. If your box is now properly finished, you have a creditable piece of work, as shown in Fig. 11, and a good receptacle for most of your tools. Let box and tools be kept in a dry place, and keep everything ready for use. Your tools, such as chisels and plane-irons and other tools, will frequently require sharpening, for it always answers the purpose to keep them with a good edge.
For plane-irons and chisels the first process must be done on a grindstone. You all know this machine. It consists of a large circular slab of rough stone, turning on an axle worked by a handle, or more frequently now by a treadle, to which the axle is attached by an iron rod. You will probably get access to some carpenter's shop where such a stone is in use, because you are not likely to have one of your own. In the first instance you had better have your tools sharpened up for you while you look on and see them done. You will then find that tools are never sharpened on a dry stone - this is bad for tool and stone. A trough of water is attached to the frame holding the stone, and it dips about an inch of its edge in the water as it is turned.
Fig. 11. - The box complete.
Fig. 12 - Sharpening a Plane-iron.
Notice how the edge of the tool is held on the stone - the stone runs towards you, and towards the edge of the tool, and the tool is not kept to the middle of the stone, but it is gently moved about, so the whole face of the stone is in use.
Again notice how you have to hold the plane-iron or chisel (Fig. 12), so that the bevel of the edge is not too thick or too thin, and that it is ground till a raw edge is obtained. Then for the fine edge you must use the oilstone. There are several kinds of oilstone employed for setting edged tools; the best and the greatest favourite with our carpenters is the Charnley forest stone, which is found in Leicestershire. The Canada oilstone is also a good stone, and costs somewhat less than the Charnley stone. The stone is generally set in a block of hard wood (Fig. 13), and fitted with a cover to keep grit off, and to prevent any substances sticking in with the oil and drying in it Small conical tins of oil are generally kept for use with these oilstones. A little petroleum is used with the oil.
You may not at first find it quite so easy as you think to put a nice fine smooth edge on a plane-iron or chisel; it is quite a matter of practice. Hold the iron and the hand grasping it at such an angle that the cutting edge is kept flat to the stone, and do not bear too hard on it. You can test the edge from time to time, before considering it finished.